Need help wit tranny install

[KARSTEN]

After waiting for various small items from my dealer for several weeks, the parts arrived today.I am replacing a tranny im my 1994 R11ooRS.During the removal I have received a ton of helpful advise on the do's and dont's from this forum.Thanks a lot!!Now The old tranny has been removed,the new one cleaned and the splines lubed with honda molylube,the two guide pins are in the engine housing where the tranny bolts on,the pushrod is in the new tranny(should it be at this point?or is this what keeps me from getting the tranny into place???) and all lines up ok,BUT I can not get the tranny close enough to the engine to get the bolts started.Might can get it close enough with force,since I did not experience this resistence when I took her apart I am wondering what is amiss???should I ,can I remove the pushrod via the clutch operating mechanism at the rear of the tranny????
Thanks in advance, once again

[PGlaves]

It sounds like the input shaft and the clutch hub are not lined up exactly.

I usually slide the driveshaft onto the back of the transmission to use to turn the transmission a litle bit. If in gear this turns the input shaft - wiggle-wiggle and often it then slips right in.

[guitardad]

Sounds like you're doing fine, Karsten. Follow Paul's advice, and keep us updated!

[KARSTEN]

not doing fine at all, this bike is going to be the cause for angermanagement classes,the puschrod in the tranny is what keeps me from sliding the tranny up against the motorhousing.Clymer states that tranny will mount flush with motorhousinh without using the bolts to pull the tranny up to motor??Heck, the pushrod keeps me from getting close enough to even start the bolts in their receivers.Just line up and force the tranny far enough to get bolts started ?Just about ready get mad(again)

[guitardad]

The clutch rod should be in place when you install the transmission - I know mine was. Let me go look at some pics. Paul - are there different pushrods for different models?

[PGlaves]

Leave the pushrod in place - but,

Go to the back of the transmission and back the adjuster out most of the way to relieve the pressure on the pushrod. To do this loosen the 13mm locknut and back the 10mm adjuster (bolt) out leaving it just screwed in the minimum amount.

Then try installing the transmission.

[AntonLargiader]

..the puschrod in the tranny is what keeps me from sliding the tranny up against the motorhousing.
Personally, I sometimes install the tranny without the pushrod. If I've rebuilt the tranny (usually the case) then it's all disassembled anyway and not much harder to assemble with the tranny installed. Plus there's no way the pushrod gets bent that way.

Still, it shouldn't be the cause of a problem. Is the input shaft engaging the clutch disk properly? If it is, and the tranny goes on except for the last 1/4 inch, it might be hanging up on the locating dowels. In that case, you can use the bolts to draw the tranny on but you'd better be sure the splines are really engaged! And definitely, back the clutch arm adjuster off all the way to be certain it's not applying pressure to the clutch via the pushrod.

[KARSTEN]

Mr. Paul that sounds like it ought to work,will try tomorrow and advise,thanks Karsten

[CTHalk]

If so, you need to have some kind of an alignment tool to make sure the clutch friction disc is exactly centered. I made one out of hard plastic on a lathe. Also, is the push rod in the correct way (correct end forward)? It could happen... When I replaced my transmission, it didn't pop right in right away. I think the transmission shaft has to be on the same axis as the clutch setup...not tilted up or down, nor left or right. It's like miniature golf. It looks easy to get it in the cup......but it may take more tries than you expect. Try to make sure it is aligned properly, and it 'should' go right in. When your blood pressure rises, and you start to get pissed off.....it's time to stop before you or the bike get hurt...which would really make you go off! My only other problem on my adventure was that I couldn't get a correct clutch lever adjustment after I had it all together. Seems I was used to other brands of bikes where the adjustment went in 'the other dirrection'. Make sure you have a good clutch lever adjustment before you put the swingarm on. It will be much easier to get to the throwout lever, if my memory serves. My bike is a 2000 R1100RT-P. I think I swore less on this one than other mechanical lumps I've worked on. (walking away helps). Hal

[KARSTEN]

I come to a full stop before I get to the point where the input shaft and clutch have a chence to engage.As soon as I slide the tranny on the two guides the puschrod makes contact and for it to retract further into the tranny I have to push the tranny forward hard enough to depress the spring all the way while lining splines up at the same time.Not happening.Tomorrow I will back out the adjuster screw all the way and hope to get this done.Looks simple enough,should not be a problem.I said should not...hm we will see tomorrow.Karsten

[CTHalk]

Try putting the trans in without the push rod. There is a felt ring on the rod. Is it knocked off and stuck somewhere? Check to see if you can put the trans in without the rod, and then slide the rod in from the outside. H.

[RiverRat280]

Mine wasn't a cable clutch and on an 1150 but I installed it without the pushrod, infact I pulled the pushrod out before removing the tranny so I wouldn't bend it. It slides right in easy from the rear of the case.
I used some emery cloth to clean up the guide pins and put a dab of lube on them so it slides on nice, used Honda Moly on the input &output splines and the clutch splines. Had tranny in top gear so I can rotate the input spline by turning the output by hand so the splines line up. It should all slide in easy or theres some other problem. After install put some moly on the pushrod tip and on the felt ring and slide it on, put moly on other side of pushrod and bolted slave cyl back on.
Don't forget to properly align the driveshaft(and lube) and torque and locktite the pivot bearings!

[AntonLargiader]

As soon as I slide the tranny on the two guides the puschrod makes contact and for it to retract further into the tranny I have to push the tranny forward hard enough to depress the spring all the way while lining splines up at the same time.
Look into the clutch and see if the diaphragm spring is centered properly. The pushrod should fit into the hole in the spring; do that and make a mark on the pushrod to indicate what "fully inserted" looks like. Then when you install the tranny, see if the pushrod is actually in properly.

[Andy VH]

I've had the tranny in my 94 RS out four times in the twelve years I've owned it.
Putting the tranny back in was never a problem. But like others here I make sure of two things:
1) The friction disc must be centered to the tranny input shaft. Get an alingment tool for this, or (I have been lucky) using a socket and center punch to line it up. The socket has to be the size of the friction disc hub bore, and the center punch OD has to be the size of the drive side of the socket.
2) I leave the clutch pushrod out till after the tranny is in place.

Once the tranny is aligned and in place the pushrod will easily slide in place.

[KARSTEN]

Ok,took off work early today so that I can look for the problem-a fresh approach-and as one might guess there it is.Our problem is that something in the clutch assembly has lost its place,a round disc(3-3.5inch in diameter)has dropped down and its solid part blocks the opening for the rod to pass trough.Like a dummy I kept pusching instead od looking.Tip of puschrod is bent,will re-order new one today.The Components that make up the clutch assembly are under pressure,right?if so then how can one get knocked out of place?Maybe it is not one component,but only part of one?(center of friction plate)Will investigate and share results.

[KARSTEN]

Update,the diaphragm spring has seperated into two pcs. the center slipped down and kept the pushrod from beeing able to be put in position.bent pushrod.Replacement spring and rod are on order.

[CTHalk]

It sounds like the problem is identified, and next time it will be a one-shot deal for you to install the tranny, and you now know your bike on an intimate level!

[KARSTEN]

OK,I need help once again.Progress is slow on my tranny swap but I have all my parts and finally got the other tranny to lign up.It has been two weeks since I started and am now attempting to put everything back where it belongs.While attempting to put airbox back in,I am managing to put it(the airbox) in a bind.The locations for the fasteners on the box do not match with the tabs on the bike.anybody know of any good pictures on the web that depict the proper routing/location for all those hoses and fuellines etc.is all that realy needed?(kidding) I am ready to get this over with and check the result.