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DSBMW1
03-24-2007, 11:03 PM
I replaced my clutch and after it is all back togeather I adjested it and went to test it. The problem is the clutch has not disengaged. I haven't ridden it yet but in the drive no matter how much I adjust it when I am in gear it takes off with the clutch lever fully pulled. Is this common? Do I just need to ride it to break the bond? In neutral it is just fine. It will not roll (not running) while in gear and the clutch pulled in. Any thoughts?

DarkCloud
03-25-2007, 07:51 AM
Did you set the main clutch adjustment screw on the right side of the bike?

DSBMW1
03-25-2007, 08:46 AM
Yes, I did. I even took it all the way in just to make sure that was not it.

PGlaves
03-25-2007, 10:25 AM
I replaced my clutch and after it is all back togeather I adjested it and went to test it. The problem is the clutch has not disengaged. I haven't ridden it yet but in the drive no matter how much I adjust it when I am in gear it takes off with the clutch lever fully pulled. Is this common? Do I just need to ride it to break the bond? In neutral it is just fine. It will not roll (not running) while in gear and the clutch pulled in. Any thoughts?

Absolutely NOT normal and not safe either. If you can't pull the clutch and roll the bike don't start it and put it in gear.

Something is amiss with the assembly.

Adjuster bolt pushes on clutch rod
Clutch rod pushes on the center of the spring
Spring pulls away from the pressure plate
Pressure plate releases
Disk slips slightly away from the clutch cover (fixed ring)
Released

The only two things I can think of off the top of my head are either the clutch rod or spring is damaged, or the clutch disk may be in backwards. If the disk is backwards I THINK the hub can bind at the front.

Andy VH
03-25-2007, 11:13 AM
Oh boy does this sound familiar to what I experienced just last spring. I replaced the friction disc (only) while doing a clutch repair on my 94 R1100RS. I have had the tranny out of this bike three times earlier in 115,000 miles due to warranty problems with the early model Oilheads. So I have some experience doing the tranny installation. I could not get the clutch to funtion right no matter how I adjusted it.

The clutch pull was uncommonly hard, short throw and not disengaging. I struggled many times over with it. Finally, with help from my dealer, we found the pressure plates had a tapered or angled wear to the faces. Resulting in only 1/4" of contact on the friction plate. So I spent the bucks for the complete clutch rebuild kit, both pressure plates and a new friction plate. Put it together and it works perfectly.

So, are you attempting a clutch job by just replacing the friction plate? This only works once as I found out, and the friction plate will only last for about 40,000 miles. I did the friction plate (only) at about 60,000 miles (failed main seal had oiled the clutch), then had to redo the clutch again at 110,000 miles. This time I replaced all the clutch parts.

BubbaZanetti
03-25-2007, 12:12 PM
any chance you may have bent your clutch pushrod?? i know mine came out the back of the transmission fairly easily so i removed it before pulling the transmission, but from what i've heard, they usually don't just come out the back so easily and are removed/reinstalled with the transmission itself. could be fairly easy to bend and cause a bind i would assume.

Andy VH
03-25-2007, 08:16 PM
Good point Bubba. When I have done my tranny work I usually re-install the clutch pushrod (throwout rod, whatever) after I have the tranny back in place. I have even done it without taking the rear wheel and shock off, but I have small hands that can contort to reach in there, its not easy.

But a bent pushrod could cause a problem and it is worth verifying that it is straight. A metal straight edge, or pane of glass is all you need to confirm if the rod is straight.

deilenberger
03-26-2007, 04:40 PM
Sounds very familiar. Did this once on the FYK100RT when trying to do a quickie spline lube (pull trans back, slather goop, pull it back in.)

In the pulling it back in phase - the spline had gotten out of alignment with the hub on the clutch disk, and pulling it back in put enough force on the clutch disk to bend it in the center. Once that happened - no amount of adjusting would make the clutch release normally.

It's gotta come apart to see what the problem is. I'd be willing to bet a disk problem, but dunno without seeing it disassembled.