Removing rear caliber

[ChicotDave]

Quick question. My Clymer's manual says to drain the brake fluid before removing the rear caliber. Is this necessary?

Thanks

[manicmechanic]

If you're only removing the caliper but not disconnecting the hose, then there shouldn't be any reason to drain the fluid.

Why are you removing the caliper?

[knary]

No

Or, more accurately, not in my humble opinion. :D

[Belquar]

Sometimes when you do brakes you have to remove some of the fluid to accomodate the new thickness of new pads if that is what you are doing. But no need to drain I don't think. Just depends on if any fluid was ever added as the brakes wore down.

Brian

[docsouce]

I think it might mean that before pushing the brake pads back to clear the rotor remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder so it doesn't overflow. A turkey baster works pertty good for this..

[ChicotDave]

Thanks for the responses. Did not think I had to drain.

[JimVonBaden1]

I think it might mean that before pushing the brake pads back to clear the rotor remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder so it doesn't overflow. A turkey baster works pertty good for this..

IF you never added any fluid, and you had new brakes when the fluid was put in, you do not need to drain any fluid to install new brakes.

Jim :brow

[BigTim]

You might want to reread your manual, I was looking at mine last night because I need to change pads and I found nothing about disconnecting the caliper from the brake line hose.

You do need to dismount it from the mounts to change pads but you DON'T need to remove the hose.

Good luck!

[Andy VH]

Make sure you use a good quality metric allen wrench to remove the caliper bolts!
Only use one that fits tight in the allen head, cause you don't get another chance if the wrench fit is poor and the wrench messes up the allen head. Make sure the allen wrench fully bottoms out in the head.

On my bike, I use a quality allen socket with a 1/2" drive, on a long breaker bar with good steady pressure to "break" the bolts loose.

Be aware too, that you need to apply proper torque to reassemble the caliper to the mount.

[WLDBT1]

When you take the pin out , make sure the e clip does not go flying. they are small and hard to find , but easy to replace. A couple of taps with a punch will take it out.

[aaaaaa]

Be careful with that hex wrench. My '04GS uses a Torx tip!
robert

[rinty]

I removed the caliper from my oiler RS to get the wheel back on after a tire change, and just supported it with a wire. Getting it back on was not easy. During re-assembly, the brake pad came out at one end, swinging on a pin at the other. After much fiddling, I got it back on, but my first test drive is going to be direct to Anderwerks, so they can inspect my "handiwork", and properly torque the (Torx) bolts and wheel lugs. That's where the bike should have been in the first place. :banghead

I had thought the wheel removal on the bike would be easy, because of the single sided swing arm......

Rinty

[JimVonBaden1]

Torque it good and snug, IIRC it is about 40NM, not super tight, but very snug.

If you are able to ride it and the brakes work fine, no need to embarass yourself taking it to a dealer, you already fixed it.

Jim :brow

[rinty]

Thanks Jim. Weather's been variable here, so I still haven't ridden it. And I've got a beam torque wrench, which should work to check the wheel lug nuts.

Rinty