PDA

View Full Version : break-in miles


srb
12-21-2003, 09:20 PM
I just had top-end work done on my '79 R100S. This work included new pistons/rings, re-honed cylinders, new con-rod bearings, new valves/guides/springs/seats, and some special head-work. My main mechanic put the first 100 miles on the bike, and I have put on another 100. What advice is out there regarding breaking in a new bike or top end? I have my orders from my mechanic, I just want to seek additional info if there is any.

Thanks

kbasa
12-22-2003, 12:41 AM
You're going to get all kinds of different advice here, but they all will agree on one thing: you need to get the rings seated properly.

I've always worked along the following rules:

Something like 1/2 of redline for max for the first hundred miles.

After that, I've allowed progressively more rpms, but didn't get it near redline until it had 600 miles on it.

Don't ride it long distances at constant speed.

Don't lug the motor.

Don't overheat it.

Change the oil, retorque the heads and give it a decent valve adjustment.

GlobalRider
12-25-2003, 10:27 AM
Originally posted by sbrick
What advice is out there regarding breaking in a new bike or top end?
Thanks

I follow the guidelines in the Owner's Manual for starters.

I also constantly vary my RPM, while also loading the engine (nothing near full throttle) during that period. A riding style you want to do on your own and on back roads unless you want to drive everyone around you nuts.

I most certainly don't believe in those "Break-In Secrets" on the Mototune USA web site.

lkchris
12-29-2003, 09:12 PM
When your bike was brand new, the official break-in word from the factory was 600 miles.

bmwterrien
12-31-2003, 07:22 PM
I agreee with Dave, but after 1k or so miles----- RIDE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT !

Happy motoring !

b_h_dowell
02-05-2004, 04:42 PM
It is too late now but in the future you might want to try a hard break-in. there are at least 2 references for this on the internet but the only one I remember now, (I'm in Chile, far from my BMW reference material), is at Moto Tune, a sportbike site. It may sound wrong but I know a bit about aircraft, and helicopter piston engines and I'm sure that they are not broken in slowly. There just isn't time. And they must be reliable. Basically the breakin involves about 4 increasingly harder runs of 15 to 20 minutes with complete cooling off in between. Do a good warmup before starting out then do runs with continual accelerating through the gears and decelerating using the engine(very important), never lugging the engine. Use increased power and RPM for each run maybe finishing with a run uising a maximum of 80% power and rpm. Byu this time you will have about 100 km on the bike and it is time to change the oil and the filter. The breakin oil should be a good non detergent oil. No sythetics. Almost all of the breakin is done in this 100 km and you will see some particles on the filter and in the oil. The actual breakin won't be finished for another 1000 mi. but you can operate at normal speeds right away. During this second phase i would ,again avoid lugging and would run at 70 mph using the gears to operate at the same speed but with diferent eng rpm's. This system eliminates the cylinder and ring glazing buildup that the factory breakin will cause. After the 1000 mi. you can change to sythetic or yor best detergent oil and change the oil filter again. Read the Moto Tune article. It explains it better than me. I followed this method after a complete top o/h of my 79 R100RT and am very happy with the results.

b_h_dowell
02-21-2004, 07:06 PM
Further to my break-in info, the other source of information about the hard breakin is:
www.one-ring.net/vfrfaq/general.html#breakin

Frankly it and the moto tune article made a lot of sense.