Tire Plugging Pictorial [Archive]

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JimVonBaden1

02-05-2007, 05:11 PM

Today while preparing to go for a cool ride, it was 30°, I found this!

I was pissed, but not too bad. The tire was close to gone anyhow.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/R1200GS/Tire%20Change%2001-07/plugging%20a%20tire/01Nail-and-wear-marks2.jpg

Then I figured this would be a good time to demonstrate how to plug a tire. I am replacing this soon anyhow, the tires are on order, but I refuse to not ride just for something like this.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/R1200GS/Tire%20Change%2001-07/plugging%20a%20tire/2tools.jpg
So I whip out my tools. It doesn’t take much, and I carry them all the time. Missing is the razor blade I use later.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/R1200GS/Tire%20Change%2001-07/plugging%20a%20tire/3pulling-nail.jpg
I use the small wire cutters to remove the nail, hoping it was just a very short one, but no luck.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/R1200GS/Tire%20Change%2001-07/plugging%20a%20tire/3anail.jpg
You can see the nail is plenty long enough to go all the way through, and in fact when it was pulled out allowed all the air to leak out quickly. Funny, there was no air leak prior to pulling it out.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/R1200GS/Tire%20Change%2001-07/plugging%20a%20tire/4reamer-tool-starting-in-tir.jpg
After pulling the nail, I use the reamer tool to make the hole ready for the plug by enlarging it slightly, and roughing up the sides of the hole.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/R1200GS/Tire%20Change%2001-07/plugging%20a%20tire/5reamer-tool-in-tire.jpg
Here is the reamer all the way in. I had to push pretty hard, and I also twist it back and forth as I push it in and pull it out. I gave it 5 strokes.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/R1200GS/Tire%20Change%2001-07/plugging%20a%20tire/6plug-on-tool-pulling.jpg
Squish the string plug flat and insert it into the tool. I used the cutters to pull it through since it can be stubborn. There are different types of installer tools, and some have an opening that makes installing the string easier.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/R1200GS/Tire%20Change%2001-07/plugging%20a%20tire/7glue-on-plug-on-tool.jpg
Then I put glue on the string and tool. This not only halps make a more permanent seal, but lubricates it for easier installation.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/R1200GS/Tire%20Change%2001-07/plugging%20a%20tire/8glue-on-hole.jpg
I also put a little glue on the hole for the same reasons. Sorry for the fuzzy picture.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/R1200GS/Tire%20Change%2001-07/plugging%20a%20tire/9plug-in-tire-start.jpg
I start pushing in the plug. It is pretty hard to get in, as it should be for a good seal.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/R1200GS/Tire%20Change%2001-07/plugging%20a%20tire/10pushing-in-plug-stop.jpg
When you get it in this far you stop. Pull the tool straight out as firmly as you can. No twisting. The tool comes out easier than it goes in.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/R1200GS/Tire%20Change%2001-07/plugging%20a%20tire/11plug-all-the-way-in.jpg
Here is the plug all the way in. Note, make sure you leave at least half an inch. You do this to ensure you don’t accidentally push the plug all the way through, and so both sides of the plug remain above the tread.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/R1200GS/Tire%20Change%2001-07/plugging%20a%20tire/12cutting-plug.jpg
Use a razor blade, or similar tool, to cut the plug level with the tread. Don’t let it be higher than the tread or it could pull itself out when riding.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/R1200GS/Tire%20Change%2001-07/plugging%20a%20tire/13Trimmed-plug.jpg
Here is the trimmed down plug. Note that it doesn’t have to look good, just be trimmed flush as much as possible.

I let the tire sit for 5 minutes with no air in it before I start inflating. This allows the glue to set up some.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/R1200GS/Tire%20Change%2001-07/plugging%20a%20tire/14Gerbing-plug.jpg
I added a Gerbing style plug to my pump to make it easier to use without removing the seat. I also start the motor before using the pump to ensure I don’t run the battery down too much to start it when I am done. I also use my throttle lock to up the RPMs to 2000 to give it a bit more charge. I don’t know if this is necessary, but it can’t hurt. (NOTE: Do not do this on a bike with a fairing around the exhaust!)

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/R1200GS/Tire%20Change%2001-07/plugging%20a%20tire/15tire-pump.jpg
I plug the tire pump into the tire and turn it on. Five minutes later the tire is full.

I know it takes a while, but it gives you a chance to clean up the tools anyhow.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/R1200GS/Tire%20Change%2001-07/plugging%20a%20tire/16tire-pressure.jpg
Check the tire pressure.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/R1200GS/Tire%20Change%2001-07/plugging%20a%20tire/17testing-plug.jpg
Test the tire for leaks. I used spit, so it looks bubbly, but it isn’t, and you can easily see that there are no leaks.

I also like to wait another 10-15 minutes to let the glue set before riding.

Test your tire pressure often, and watch the plug to ensure it stays.

Lastly, those of you with the factory BMW kit might want to look at the string plugs. In my experience the rubber plugs, BMW and others, don’t hold up to steel belted tires too well. The belts tend to cut the plugs. Also I would suggest a tire pump over the CO2 cartridges. It would take 6 or more cartridges to get 20 psi, and the three might not even get you ten.

I will ride this tire for at least a thousand miles before I have a chance to install new tires, and have complete confidence that the plug will hold! YMMV!

Jim :brow

Mr. Frank

02-05-2007, 07:37 PM

Nice job on the photos.

I've heard some folks say to let the plug stick out a little bit so it mashes a little. Has anybody else heard that?

JimVonBaden1

02-05-2007, 07:54 PM

Nice job on the photos.

I've heard some folks say to let the plug stick out a little bit so it mashes a little. Has anybody else heard that?

I understand the concept, but would prefer not to have it sticking out. If the tire slips a little it could catch and rip the plug out.

Jim :brow

PacWestGS

02-06-2007, 12:14 AM

Nice job on the photos.

I've heard some folks say to let the plug stick out a little bit so it mashes a little. Has anybody else heard that?

Nope, cut it as close to flush as possible. Nothing on the outside is doing anything to stop the leak. Once pressurized it should not push in and like Jim says can only get pulled out.

Most of the plugs are designed to melt somewhat under tire heat and will become a permanent fix bonding to the tire. Even though some people swear by replacing a tire after a plug/patch fix. (I) only replace if the cords were cut or I planned on a long highspeed tour, or the plug didn't fix the flat.

Rope plugs (like Jim uses) will work better with small cuts and you can pack a few into the hole and hope. The little round rubber plugs like the "Stop-n-Go" plug kit work well for nails and screw holes only. (The application of the plugs are a bit different than Jim explains).

Replacement is always your best answer for MC tires, you decide...

Russ

lawman

02-06-2007, 09:29 AM

thanks, man; I have read of this procedure for many years but this is the first narrrative, photo how-to-do-it I have seen; thanks again...wj

Jamming

02-10-2007, 08:57 AM

Jim, Nice write thanks.

I keep both the sting plugs and a stop-n-go kit on the bike.

I really like the idea of the Gerbing style plug. I made a female lighter plug that attaches to the battery with clips that my Sparrow pump plugs into, but I have to take off the seat. Can I steal your idea? I'll give you full credit :)

Roger

Paul_F

02-10-2007, 05:37 PM

Thanks for the photo display. I was planning on picking up a used tire from a local dealer this spring and practising the plugging technique. I will use your tutorial for my guide and if I should have bad luck on my summer trip, I should be able to handle a flat tire.

JimVonBaden1

02-11-2007, 12:09 AM

138431

10-27-2010, 09:47 PM

this was great.. Now I think I can duplicate your repair.............thanks

cathdeac

10-28-2010, 07:31 AM

GREAT patch job, especially pics and simple narrative!!!

For a Battery Connection, here is what I have.. a FUSED, SAE connector that came with my DELTRAN battery charger. Look here for a pic of several DC CONNECTORS including the SAE style connector if you want to build your own:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DC_connector

To "MINIMIZE" the possibility of "shorts", simply wire the "covered" connector to the POSITIVE battery terminal.

You can also wire in "trouble" lights, or other accessories... good, reliable...

rinty

10-28-2010, 09:28 AM

Yeah, this thread should be permanently posted somewhere, if it isn't already.

osbornk

10-28-2010, 02:07 PM

I get my plugs at O'Reillys (and other places) and never ever use any glue and I have never had a problem or a leak. I fixed two flats on my CLC within the last couple of years and wore the tires out without losing any air. My Impala currently has two plugs in the tires and they never lose any air. The cord like plugs I use are really sticky and even the complete repair kit doesn't have any glue. The last tire shop that plugged a tire for me didn't use glue.

jduke

10-28-2010, 03:52 PM

brewmeister

10-28-2010, 05:12 PM

I did the same thing at the top o rockeys ralley this summer with a small audiance. this repair got me back to wisconsin. My tools have a T handle for easier push and pulling through the hole in tire. I have used these string plugs for a while they do work great! carrie on! over and out

copandengr

10-28-2010, 09:25 PM

Great tutorial. I spent much of my youth around a service station learning how to patch tubes and tires, starting way back when vulcanizing patches were used. One small addition to the tire patch kit (rope plug type) is to cut a piece of copper tubing with an ID that is as close as possible to fitting closely over the needle, and reaching from the handle to 1/2 " short of the eye. This will prevent inadvertantly pushing the plug in too far. It will work kind of like a drill stop on a drill. If you are really anal, you can use a piece of steel brake line tubing, and flare the end of it to avoid any possibility of cutting into the tire itself. If you do not havew a flaring tool, simply buy a short piece of straight steel tubing, which will already be flared at each end. Cut the line to length, and can the flare nut. You then have two tools to use.

flars

10-29-2010, 06:50 AM

"...I was planning on picking up a used tire ..."
One thing to note, and Jim briefly touched on it - pushing that plug in can be a real beyotch... Trying to practice on a tire that is not mounted is a good idea, but will lead to much sweating, soreness and use of manly language. When practicing, it is best to drill a hole through the tire (you ever try to hammer a nail into a tire???) that is pretty big. That way you get the experience of plugging the tire without all the sweat.
The use of the 'reamer' is two fold, one good, one not so good. The good: make the hole big enough to get that huge worm into the tire without having to be the Hulk; and the not so good: to get the (steel, aramid, whatever) belts out of the way. If you can get away with sticking the reamer into the hole without twisting it, it is mo better.

lsouth3

10-29-2010, 07:38 AM

Jim I did almost the exact same routine about 3 weeks ago in Mena Ar.
Difference was I had no camera, no audience and it was a warm morning. I performed the entire thing in front of a large tire dealership that "DOES NOT REPAIR MOTORCYCLE TIRES".
The employee who let me use their air chuck was a rider who showed kindness and concern but could not actually do any repair. My repair kit was in the tail storage and it was nice not to have to use the 12v pump or CO2 cartridges. I was touring alone and limping into the place early in the morning was a blessing indeed.

R80RTJohnny

10-29-2010, 07:28 PM

Great post. Thank you for taking the time to take the pictures and presenting it in a very logical way.

Hopefully the ON will pick this up (the post not the nail) and print it before the next riding season.

MLS2GO

10-31-2010, 10:06 AM

I used to be a stop n go guy but have changed to Jim's methods. I believe stop n go makes a good product, I just find under stressful times, say like on the side of an interstate with trucks whizzing by that the string is simpler under pressure and or low light. The one change I would make to his kit is going to T Handle tools. Walmart sells a very nice set for under $10.00. T Handles make it so much easier, especially for reaming. Thanks for posting Jim.

Mr. Frank

10-31-2010, 11:35 AM

The OEM BMW repair kit has crappy plugs but a really nice insertion tool. It works well with gummy rope plugs.

Isamemon

10-31-2010, 01:49 PM

I use the "Monkey Grip" brand with the T handle and carry a small hand pump. takes a bit loonger, but very little space needed

Merlin III

02-24-2011, 01:27 PM

Great pictorial.
I've always wondered why the need to ream the hole out any larger, but that was a necessary evil so the string tool could be inserted.
But I found an alternative, Dynaplug http://www.dynaplug.com
No association, but I keep one in every car, both bikes and even my daughters cars. Haven't had to use one yet, so it's Karma is pretty good.

I know next to nothing about the subject, but the Dynaplug method is so much easier, as shown in the video. It makes me wonder if it is a "less permanent" repair?

If I repair a newer tire I want to be able to use the tire for the remaining natural life of the tire. Anyone have any thoughts on the matter?

jduke

02-24-2011, 01:31 PM

It uses sticky rope like most of the other repair kits, so I guess as long as you are fixing a small nail puncture, it would be as permanent as any other sticky stuff kit.
But if someone isn't as "thrifty" and wants to repair the puncture from the inside, it should get you to a repair shop that can make this type of repair.

Mr. Frank

02-24-2011, 01:43 PM

The Dyna Plug rope has a metal tip which would reduce the chance of the plug coming out.

Happy Wanderer

02-24-2011, 02:31 PM

I use Nealy plugs which you _do_ twist so they _never_ come out.

http://www.tirerepairkit.com/easyuse.htm

They are different as the insertion tool does not release once inside. You twist it and then pull the plug back out a bit and cut off the excess. This makes a small mound inside covering the hole better and preventing the plug from coming out.

I've worn out two rear tires that picked up nails, screws and a shard of sharp metal and both were plugged. One had two plugs in it for the life of the tire. No problems with either tire till end of life and both were used extensively for long distance touring.

Rubber cement or no rubber cement, tire plugs will still plug your tire and seal it if done properly. They do go in a bit easier if you use glue as lube though. I've done it both ways with equal results.

Mr. Frank

02-24-2011, 03:26 PM

Could you explain how the tool is released if the rope is twisted and threaded through the tool?

Happy Wanderer

02-24-2011, 06:40 PM

You cut off the rope and discard the leftovers. :whistle

Also, the insertion tool is also a reamer.

Mr. Frank

02-24-2011, 07:26 PM

DRw2ge

02-24-2011, 08:25 PM

RE: the tools, T-Handles are easier and better quality reamer kits will be all metal.. the plastic ones break sooner or later. When pushing in the rope-plug, PUSH HARD AND FAST! Seriously... get some leverage, body positioning before you go for it...

kgadley01

02-24-2011, 09:23 PM

The Dyna Plug rope has a metal tip which would reduce the chance of the plug coming out.

It also makes it much easyier to insert the plug....

DRw2ge

02-25-2011, 08:33 AM

Happy Wanderer

02-25-2011, 01:00 PM

I didn't make my question clear. The illustration shows a tool with an enclosed eye on the end that the rope feeds through. It appears that if you pull the tool out, the rope would come with it. Standard insertion tools have a slot to allow the tool to be removed from the rope.

The Nealy system does not work like all the other sticky rope pluggers out there. I know it sounds counter intuitive but it works quite well.
- First you ream the hole out real good.
- Next you thread the tool with their special sticky ropes. Don't ask me what is in them, but they do feel different than the auto store ones.
- Next you shove it in right down to the hilt. (That might be canadian for "till you can't shove it in any further")
- Then twist it around 1.5 turns. No more, no less. This bunches up some rope inside the tire.
- Then you pull the rope back out till it just clears the tire. This secures the bunch of rope you just made inside the tire and pulls it firmly onto the inside creating a "patch" of sticky rope. Like a mushroom...
- Then you cut off all the excess with a razor blade.

The result is that the initial insertion puts two strands of rope in the hole. The twisting creates a "patch" inside the hole covering it completely. When you pull the rope back out again you now have FOUR strands of sticky rope in the hole.

This not only eliminates the need to put a rubber patch on the inside of your tire but it also plugs the hole more effectively.

MPMARTY

03-16-2011, 05:35 PM

i didn't make my question clear. The illustration shows a tool with an enclosed eye on the end that the rope feeds through. It appears that if you pull the tool out, the rope would come with it. Standard insertion tools have a slot to allow the tool to be removed from the rope.

ya cut da rope!

Happy Wanderer

03-16-2011, 06:05 PM

Mrfrank,,, as you pull the tool out (FAST) it "cuts" through the rope leaving it in the tire... it is sharp on the forward end.

No it don't. Nothing sharp on my Nealy tool anyway... Maybe they updated it? Far as I know... _You_ cut the rope.

Here are the four simple instructions. With pictures even! :p

http://www.tirerepairkit.com/easyuse.htm

Merlin III

04-29-2011, 05:57 AM

If appropiate, could you tell me what brand of tire repair kit and pump you use? There appears to be systems out there that don't use glue; what do you think of that concept? Thanks in advance.

Mr. Frank

04-29-2011, 09:37 AM

The Dyna Plug and Stop and Go systems don't use glue. Most ropey plugs don't require it, but it's a good idea.

Happy Wanderer

04-29-2011, 12:49 PM

If appropiate, could you tell me what brand of tire repair kit and pump you use? There appears to be systems out there that don't use glue; what do you think of that concept? Thanks in advance.

I've used the Nealy tire ropes with and without glue. It worked both times (no leaks) but it was a bit easier to get the rope in with glue as a lubricant. These things vulcanize themselves to the rubber so I don't think it matters.

As for my pump, it's just a 12VDC compact air compressor you can get at any automotive store. I got mine at Canadian Tire on sale for around $12.