sanity check please: switched wiring for accessories

[griffin738]

Hello,

I'm hoping to install a couple accessories on my '02 1150GSA. I'd like them all to be switched such that when I turn off the ignition, power shuts off to them all. From reading a bunch of posts everywhere, I think the answer is to use a relay and a distribution block (aka dual pair block, aka dual row barrier strip (I think)) with two jumpers.

I've attached a schematic of what I'm thinking to do. Can anyone give this an overall sanity check? I also have a few specific questions, as follows:
1) Is grounding to battery okay?
2) Is 15Amp fuse okay?
3) Any concerns with using “top” of barrier strip as positive & “bottom” as ground?
4) Is using a Quick Connect to switched power okay?
5) Is 18 gauge wire for all connections okay?

[kbasa]

Paul, Touratech sells a gizmo called a CanBus helper that can do exactly what you propose. It's got a built in relay and a series of spade connectors. I think it's $50 or $75. It's got a fuse inline, too.

[John Brase]

I'd like to see you to have appropriately sized fuses for each device. Instead of the terminal block, you could use a fuse block. I use this one on my bike.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/91545/0/0/fuse%20block/All_2/mode+matchallpartial/0/0

John

[wuli959]

depending on where you locate your fuse block, you can also pull switched power for the relay off of the bikes existing fuses (horn fuse makes a good one) with a piggypack on the existing fuse.
http://wulimaster.smugmug.com/photos/58570914-S.jpg

Using one of these:
http://wulimaster.smugmug.com/photos/58808533-S.jpg

Another option for a fuse block is the Centech (http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap1.shtml). Not waterproof but small enough to tuck away in a waterproof location.


I use the a Centech to power smaller accessories out of my tank bag (V1, satellite radio, autocom, cell phone, electric jacket) so I can move it from bike to bike. YMMV.
http://wulimaster.smugmug.com/photos/53883745-S.jpg

[lewisec]

You will want to make sure each accessory has its own fuse between your barrier strip and the accessory. You can fuse the relay input (we do on our Power Plates) for extra safety as you show. On your Gerbings, do you have the total wattage on your setup?

[donaldb]

I also used the BlueSea that John listed; I got a 30amp relay from RadioShack. Put the relay in the OEM fuse box and screwed the BlueSea to the top of the Air Box. I also added a Noise Suppressor up line from the BlueSea. I used an Add-A-Circuit off the horn fuse to power the relay.

[BradfordBenn]

I've attached a schematic of what I'm thinking to do. Can anyone give this an overall sanity check? I also have a few specific questions, as follows:
1) Is grounding to battery okay?
2) Is 15Amp fuse okay?
3) Any concerns with using “top” of barrier strip as positive & “bottom” as ground?
4) Is using a Quick Connect to switched power okay?
5) Is 18 gauge wire for all connections okay?

Here are my non warranted opinions...

Grounding to the Battery is fine
a 15Amp fuse might be okay, what are you planning on connecting to it? This depends on Ohm's Law. The easiest way to put it (in layperson's terms) Watts = Volts * Amps. So if you know the wattage and you use 12VDC for the calculation you can derive amperage.
I like going alternating pairs for the wiring, it makes it easier to dress the wire and easier to use a multimeter.
A quick connect is okay if it is rated for the power current and voltage.
The 18 AWG wire will be okay for most items and not others. I do not have my reference sheet with me, but it depends on what you are connecting with it. iPod that takes 7 Watts, heck go with 22AWG.

[griffin738]

Thank you all very much! Input fully appreciated (and mostly understood!). New "schematic" at bottom. . .

Touratech sells a gizmo called a CanBus helper that can do exactly what you propose. I took a look - it looks like a great solution, except now I'm spooked that I should have different fuses for each accessory. Also, they're on backorder! :doh

I'd like to see you to have appropriately sized fuses for each device. OK, will do. Any idea what fuse if any I should use for the Autocom Active Plus? (none came with the unit and there is no specific mention in the materials).

depending on where you locate your fuse block, you can also pull switched power for the relay off of the bikes existing fuses (horn fuse makes a good one) with a piggypack on the existing fuse. That sounds like the way to go, thanks. Maybe I'll go with a Tapa-Circuit so that I don't mess with the fit of the horn fuse in the fuse panel?

On your Gerbings, do you have the total wattage on your setup? Jacket liner @ 77-107 watts + Gloves @ 22-27 watts. The Gerbing's "kit" comes with a 15A fuse. Sufficient?

I also added a Noise Suppressor up line from the BlueSea. Thanks, something tells me I should remember this in case things sound a little funky after the install. . .

The easiest way to put it (in layperson's terms) Watts = Volts * Amps. So if you know the wattage and you use 12VDC for the calculation you can derive amperage. Ah! so if the total gerbings wattage is between 99 & 134 watts, then a fuse that trips at 15 amps is about right. (?) I also looked through the Autocom materials - no mention of wattage. Perhaps I'll pick up the phone. . .

I like going alternating pairs for the wiring, it makes it easier to dress the wire and easier to use a multimeter. Makes total sense, but each pair is already bridged, so I can't see how that would work, at least on the terminal I picked up (wrong item?): http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103983&kw=2103983

[advenbob]

Just a quick note on what I have done in the past on a couple of my bikes.

First, the Touratech device is for bikes with the Canbus system. I do not think your 02 GSA would qualify. On my 1150 GS and on my 1200GT (03) I use a power distribution panel from electricalconnection.com. Additionaly, I also use their grounding block.

The distribution panel is simular to the Cen Tech, as you are adding additional fused circuts. The panel itself is fuse and via a relay, is only hot with the key in the on position. So everything you wire up to this panel is only on with the key. If you need something powered with the key off, it would be a seperate issue.

The use of a grounding block is also a very neat installation. As you add circuts that require a ground, the grounding block allows this to be done in a very neat order. You do not end up with a stack of connectors at your battery terminals.

So just figure out what you want powered with the ignition and what you want hot all the time. Example, I powered my Gerbings though the distribution block. Works ok, but I would rather have it powered all the time. That allows heat with out running the bike. At least for a while. Same with my XM. Additional lighting is run off the distribution block, as I only need it when operating the bike.

It is very easy to do, and using the distribution panels out there in the market make it a neat installation.

good luck

bob still

[griffin738]

Hello, Thanks again to all who helped me wire in my accessories. I've posted a few photos and will now attempt to link to them here. But first a little background on the project. . .

My mission was to install a new GPS and Autocom on my '02 BMW R1150GS Adventure. I wanted the power switched so that the accessories would run only when the ignition is on (the Zumo GPS has a built-in battery, so I can choose to keep it on when I turn off the bike).

With the help of many others at BMWBMW, BMWMOA and ADVRIDER, I learned to use a relay and a power terminal. I considered using a fuse block (Centech, BlueSea) but those items would not fit as easily in the space I wanted to use. I also considered Touratech's CanBus helper but I wanted separate fuses for each accessory. Also, those items were not immediately available and I'm totally compulsive.

I chose to mount the relay, power block and autocom all under my seat (aftermarket seat from Sargent, tall version). To house these items I dug up an old VHS box and cut it here and there to allow wires to pass through (also a hole or two to let water out, if it should ever find its way in).

The schematic attached below is the final version. Many prior versions were modified based on input from others (thanks!). As a rookie wrencher, I did as much set-up on my own as possible, but the tricky stuff was done at Tech Day.

If you have read this far, then thanks. I hope this helps you out. Now for the photos (I hope!).



http://griffin738.smugmug.com/photos/126700532-M.jpg
The schematic

http://griffin738.smugmug.com/photos/126700552-M.jpg
At Tech Day - thanks!

http://griffin738.smugmug.com/photos/126700572-M.jpg
At Tech Day - thanks again!

http://griffin738.smugmug.com/photos/126700588-M.jpg
After Tech Day - The view from above, most work is done, still need to set up autocom.

http://griffin738.smugmug.com/photos/126700604-M.jpg
Close-up view of relay (to the left of the autocom, lower item) and accessory power terminal (to the left of the autocom, upper item). Note the relay's green trigger wire running off the horn fuse).

http://griffin738.smugmug.com/photos/126700625-M.jpg
View with covers on fuse box and accessory power box closed. Touratech sticker added to increase value of bike :D

http://griffin738.smugmug.com/photos/126700645-M.jpg
Not directly related to the wiring project, but here is how the GPS is mounted. To mount the RAM arm, I used a replacement handlebar bolt and cool angled RAM ball instead of the u-clamp that came with the Zumo (Touratech # GCMXB, GRAB9). I also replaced the easy-turning RAM arm screw with a security screw (Touratech # GCSEC2 - I wonder when I'll lose the special little wrench?).

http://griffin738.smugmug.com/photos/126700669-M.jpg
I finished mounting the GPS late one COLD January night. No good option for a test ride, but I did turn her on to check out the new night-time look of the controls. The photo is a little fuzzy, but aren't we all from time to time?

[derail412]

We did you get the black box you put the autocom unit and other into it?

[henzilla]

I recall he used a VHS case when I saw this earlier in year

[griffin738]

Yep, an old VHS case. On my 1150 GS Adventure w/ tall Sargent seat, the case fits perfectly where the tool kit would otherwise go (tools, tools and more tools ride along in Jesse bag, muffler side).

I like the case b/c it provides a "shell" for the autcom & accessory power items. It's easy to cut a few holes through which to pass wires. I also cut a couple holes on the low side of the case (it sits on an angle) to allow water to escape - but so far there's no evidence that water has ever gotten in.

[GlobalRider]

I also have a few specific questions, as follows:
4) Is using a Quick Connect to switched power okay?
5) Is 18 gauge wire for all connections okay?

4) It is if you don't mind splicing into factory wiring. I just don't like them and installed all of my stuff using non-destructive methods.

5) That depends on your current draw. I'd use 16 or 14 ga for the heated clothing circuit...less voltage drop, not that you have any real wire lengths to deal with.

This is how I tapped into a circuit...AutoSwitch and relay installation (http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8669) going to my auxilliary fuse block on my GS (http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8659).