Parts list for 36K service - 2000 R1100RT

[jyambrovich]

Hello all,
I've only got about 300 miles before my RT hits the 36K mark. I've got a WONDERFUL mechanic just across town (Ted Porter's BeemerShop) but I'm rather concerned over the cost of this major service (a lot short on funds at the moment). I WILL have them do the TB synch for me.

I've owned the bike since June 2006 and have put 6400 miles on it. I'm fairly ept (as opposed to inept) mechanically and have tools but the only work I've done on the bike so far is to change the engine oil and filter.

I have a $100 gift certificate for the local BMW dealer that I could use to purchase the parts for my service. However, I don't have a comprehensive list of the parts that are needed for the service.
Is there such a list somewhere? Would anyone who has done this on their own bike have such a list, or would you prepare a list to post here?

Questions: Does my bike have the adjustable V-belt or the Maintenance-free one? How do I tell? When removing the alternator belt cover, does the gasket need to be replaced every time or just inspected and re-used? What about the valve-cover gaskets? (I've owned dozens of air-cooled VWs and the valve adjustments are something I've done for decades)

I think that this is one of the most helpful groups of folks I've ever lurked around. Thanks in advance, I really appreciate the help.

JAY YAMBROVICH

[kbasa]

Hi Jay,

Have you looked at this manual? http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/R11Manual/Oilhead_Maintenance_2-25-02.pdf

I believe you're going to need the following:

Oil Filter
Crush washers for final drive, trans and oil drain bolts.
Alternator belt (no gasket on the cover, I believe it's vented)
Final Drive and trans hypoid oil
Dow Gear Guard (5% by volume in final drive and trans) - optional
Brake Fluid
Spark plugs
Spark plug gaskets (they seal the hole in the middle of the valve cover where the spark plug goes)

You can reuse your valve cover gaskets if they're still sealing well.

While you have the left valve cover off, you might want to consider replacing the two O-rings that seal up the filler cap. They get old and hard and start to allow some weeping around the filler.

I think that's it, but I'd bet Paul's got some ideas about how to make your bike last as long as Voni's.

[PGlaves]

Hi Jay,

Have you looked at this manual? http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/R11Manual/Oilhead_Maintenance_2-25-02.pdf

I believe you're going to need the following:

Oil Filter
Crush washers for final drive, trans and oil drain bolts.
Alternator belt (no gasket on the cover, I believe it's vented)
Final Drive and trans hypoid oil
Dow Gear Guard (5% by volume in final drive and trans) - optional
Brake Fluid
Spark plugs
Spark plug gaskets (they seal the hole in the middle of the valve cover where the spark plug goes)

You can reuse your valve cover gaskets if they're still sealing well.

While you have the left valve cover off, you might want to consider replacing the two O-rings that seal up the filler cap. They get old and hard and start to allow some weeping around the filler.

I think that's it, but I'd bet Paul's got some ideas about how to make your bike last as long as Voni's.


I would add the following things to be concerned about.

Fuel Filter and the big O ring that seals the tank and fuel pump plate. Add new hose clamps for the tiny vent and drain lines which will most likely loosen when you remove the fuel pump plate and pull it out far enough to renew the filter.

Air Filter - may be fine but should be checked. 36K is a good replacement time unless it has been done sooner.

While there carefully look for any seepage. O rings at the camshaft gear ports on the back of the heads come to mind.

[JKERSH1]

Questions: Does my bike have the adjustable V-belt or the Maintenance-free one? How do I tell?

The Haynes manual for the R850/1100 says the new type belt was fitted to all R1100R's and RT's, but to GS and RS starting with engine number 38946130. Among other markings that distinguish the two, the new bottom pulley doesn't have the three spot welds on the front.

[kitze2]

Hey Jay. I too just did the 36K service on my 2000 RT. It's a cake walk. Don't forget to sync the TBs. For about $40 I also replaced all the valve cover gaskets and grommets. After 7 years they were starting to look a wee bit dry. To pull the alt belt cover you need to pull the shark fin on the right side. I fumbled around it for an hour. Only takes 45 seconds to pull it.:doh I changed the fuel filter also. However, it was as good as new. If you know it was changed in the past (mine was change at 24K) and assuming you don't buy the cheapest gas in town....I'd skip it. It kind of a pain in the butt. But I guess it can't hurt to swap it out.

I had a lot of fun doing it. And it ran sweet after.
Enjoy.
Damien

[Mika]

BMW has their maintenance schules online at BMW-Motorrad.co.uk (http://www.bmw-motorrad.co.uk/gb/en/index.html). You can find your bike and print the schedule for future reference. BMW is reskining their web sites and this feature seems to be going away.

[jyambrovich]

Dear Dave and Paul and others,
Thanks so much for your help. Dave, it's interesting that I'd seen (and downloaded) the manual http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/R11Manual/Oilhead_Maintenance_2-25-02.pdf that you referred to and as soon as I opened the file, it looked familiar. I just quick-scanned the entire thing again as a refresher. Great stuff!!
I bought the CD-ROM repair and service manual for my bike but the manual already referred to gives a lot of great and easy-to-follow procedures for the items most commonly encountered.

My big concern right now never having removed the 'Tupperware' from my bike (other than the lower piece to get to the oil filter and drain plug) is the removal of the plastic pieces. I plan to have my digital camera alongside when I begin the process so that I will have pictures to refer to IF I end up needing to.

I'm encouraged by all of the help. I'm still going to take the bike in to have the TBs synched up but I think I'm going to attempt the rest of it on my own.

Any members from the Santa Cruz / Scotts Valley / Aptos / Los Gatos / San Jose area need to do the same? We could do it together at my place if that works or if anyone would be happy to sit in and provide a little guidance and company, that would be great too.

Thanks all.

JAY YAMBROVICH

[kitze2]

Hey Jay. I'm in Alameda. Come on up and I'll make coffee. I've got the perfect chair to supervise from:drink Just kidding.
I've got the tools and carb sticks. Don't sweat the plastic. Getting it off isn't that hard. Getting it back on takes a little thought and time. You gotta take care putting the six screws back into the tank. But it's really not a biggie.
Damien

[kbasa]

When are you guys thinking about doing this? I'm kind of busy these days, but it would be fun to spend some time doing a tech day.

Hang a thread up about it and watch your garage fill with "experts"! :ha

[PGlaves]

RT tupperware removal is all about three things:

1. Finding all of the screws.

2. Documenting which length screw goes in each hole.

3. Finding where the last two or three screws you have left over go. (See 1 and 2)

I've known people to color code them with paint on the thread end.

I measure the lengths and write them down for each hole.

Photos help too, the first couple of times.

The saving grace for the Oilhead RT is that it is simple compared to the K1200LT. The first time I tried to skin one of those I thought I was going to need either a can opener or a die grinder (but I didn't). Just two phone calls to my favorite dealer.

[bikerfish1100]

Jay-
it sounds like you are comfortable working around a bike/car. if you can do a valve adjustment, you can do a TB sync. Really, it's a piece o' cake. the money you save on giving the bike to your dealer will more than pay for the purchase of a Twinmax. He has to yank all that plastic off to get to the TBs, and that's gonna ring up the T-M cost right there, and he still hasn't done a thing to the bike yet!
get it here... http://www.adventuremotogear.com/twinmax.mgi?mgiToken=HEHE3E6HHE55B1371

[kitze2]

Jay,
I thought about my post of yesterday...Suggesting you come up is a dumb idea since the valves need to be adjusted cold :doh
Anyways...I'd be willing to give ya a hand and supply any tools you don't have. Besides helping somebody work on their bike gives me a real story to tell my other half. She thinks my bikes are total POS since I'm always tweaking them.
And what "bikerfish" says is true. To do the TB right you have to have the plastics off. Although you can mostly get at the right side with 'em on. Doing the sync is pretty easy. Try doing a late 80s Ducati with Delorto Carbs. :banghead

[ltljohn]

For the hardware on the tupperware of My RT I cut out a piece of cardboard in the rough shape of the tupperware, then make holes corresponding to the position on the bike remove screw put in hole easy to put back in the right place.

[kbasa]

For the hardware on the tupperware of My RT I cut out a piece of cardboard in the rough shape of the tupperware, then make holes corresponding to the position on the bike remove screw put in hole easy to put back in the right place.

Same here. I do that for all kinds of assemblies.

[BradfordBenn]

I do the same trick with the cardboard as well. Also I will say getting a bit to take all the screws out with an electric screw pencil - notice not a screw gun. It is smaller and has less torque and works well for keeping the wrist from getting tired.