Mobil 1 - "V Twin" Synthetic Oil 20w50

[allanruprecht]

I will be changing the oil on my 2004 1150RT from now on. I have considered using MOBIL 1 SYNTHETIC oil (20w50), and changing it every 6,000 miles. I now have 33,000 miles on my bike.
I know that BMW has a synthetic oil, but have been advised that the "MOBIL 1" motorcycle brand is just as good, and works better than standard oils.

Any suggestions?

Allan Ruprecht
Northville, Michigan

[ssls6]

I will be changing the oil on my 2004 1150RT from now on. I have considered using MOBIL 1 SYNTHETIC oil (20w50), and changing it every 6,000 miles. I now have 33,000 miles on my bike.
I know that BMW has a synthetic oil, but have been advised that the "MOBIL 1" motorcycle brand is just as good, and works better than standard oils.

Any suggestions?

Allan Ruprecht
Northville, Michigan

The specs on Mobil 1 Vtwin are impressive. The additive levels are quite high and probably exceed anything you can buy from BMW. If you really do change your oil every 6k miles, I bet your motor would last just as long running Havoline 20w-50. There's not a lot to be gained once your past "good enough".

[BubbaZanetti]

this amsoil (www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf) test showed the bmw synth to rank just behind the v-twin, and it's cheaper i think. but of course, the amsoil rated best :brow

[mrich12000]

Thanks that was an excelent report :clap :clap

VE3CEH

[37071]

My buddy "Dr Don" has 25 years experience at Exxon lubricant research. His take is that if you race your motorcycle or have about 90% city riding - you might get your moneys worth from synthetic oil. Otherwise cheaper "dino" oil will be fine.
Changing oil every 16,000 km would warrant synthetic. In his experience; it is better for the engine to change the oil every 5000 km (3K mi) and moderately priced "dino" oil is lots good enough. :type

[lkchris]

This is an Oilhead thread.

[BubbaZanetti]

This is an Oilhead thread.


thanks, i'll have it moved..........

[Mr. Frank]

The Mobil I motorcycle oil does well on tests I've seen. A big plus is it's available at Wal-Mart.

The arguments for synthetic with oilheads is the long change interval (6k) and the tendency to get hot in traffic. I also like its low volatility which reduces consumption on long trips.

[bigdelta]

uses Amsoil when you request synthetic.They have an Amsoil sticker on their entrance door.They do carry BMW syn if you specify it.
I'll be switching to it when I reach 6k on the GS.

[Easy]

My buddy "Dr Don" has 25 years experience at Exxon lubricant research. His take is that if you race your motorcycle or have about 90% city riding - you might get your moneys worth from synthetic oil. Otherwise cheaper "dino" oil will be fine.
Changing oil every 16,000 km would warrant synthetic. In his experience; it is better for the engine to change the oil every 5000 km (3K mi) and moderately priced "dino" oil is lots good enough. :type


Changed on a regular basis, dino works well for most folks. But in Texas and other southern areas where it is not uncommon to go for a summer ride in temps well over 100, you might want to give a second thought to the better temp and viscosity characteristics of a good synthetic.

Easy :german

"You can disagree without being disagreeable"
Gerald Ford

[Screamineagle]

uses Amsoil when you request synthetic.They have an Amsoil sticker on their entrance door.They do carry BMW syn if you specify it.
I'll be switching to it when I reach 6k on the GS.
you will be switching to "it". Which "it" are you switching to?

[bigdelta]

I've had good results with Amsoil in 4 wheeled vehicles,so my GS is next.


you will be switching to "it". Which "it" are you switching to?

[BubbaZanetti]

I've had good results with Amsoil in 4 wheeled vehicles,so my GS is next.


how does the price compare to the bmw synth?

[saab93driver]

I will be changing the oil on my 2004 1150RT from now on. I have considered using MOBIL 1 SYNTHETIC oil (20w50), and changing it every 6,000 miles. I now have 33,000 miles on my bike.
I know that BMW has a synthetic oil, but have been advised that the "MOBIL 1" motorcycle brand is just as good, and works better than standard oils.

Any suggestions?

Allan Ruprecht
Northville, Michigan

I have used both but currently I use the Mobil 1 20w50 - Autozone is closer than the BMW dealer.... I have no complaints. Does it "work better?" - I don't know, I don't have anything to quantify that relative to BMW synthetic so it is a subjective analysis. Both are reputable products, my bike doesn't run any different with either one

[gsinmaine]

how does the price compare to the bmw synth?
you mean Castrol syntec?? "BMW recommends Castrol"(?) I run Mobil1 in two turcks 1 w/a 325+hp 350 and the other just 300hp 525ft.lbs now for the bemmer that started @600mi Good stuff! very low oil use 1qt 15-2000mi w/oem filters and she starts nice @28 deg. thats my .02$

[bigdelta]

But they sell Amsoil right alongside all the other lubricants and liquids on their shop display.

how does the price compare to the bmw synth?

[bigdelta]

you went to synthetic at 600 miles in the GS?

you mean Castrol syntec?? "BMW recommends Castrol"(?) I run Mobil1 in two turcks 1 w/a 325+hp 350 and the other just 300hp 525ft.lbs now for the bemmer that started @600mi Good stuff! very low oil use 1qt 15-2000mi w/oem filters and she starts nice @28 deg. thats my .02$

[John Brase]

I use Mobile 1 V-Twin in my bike (1150RS) with a 12,000 mile change interval. I send a sample of the used oil for testing (Blackstone Labs (http://www.blackstone-labs.com)) and the oil reports consistently show no problems using this interval. Last summer I subjected the bike to a couple of high heat cycles - 100 degrees stuck in construction traffic - and it still tested good after 11,600 miles.

John

[cjack]

you mean Castrol syntec?? "BMW recommends Castrol"(?) I run Mobil1 in two turcks 1 w/a 325+hp 350 and the other just 300hp 525ft.lbs now for the bemmer that started @600mi Good stuff! very low oil use 1qt 15-2000mi w/oem filters and she starts nice @28 deg. thats my .02$

BMWAG has a deal with Castrol. So they recommend it in all their vehicle manuals authored in Germany, bikes or cars. On the car side in the USA, they use it. On the bike side in the USA, BMWNA has a deal with Spectro who makes all their BMW branded oil. It tests out very well and comes in dino or synth. I have used the synth 15W50 for years now.

[charleshickman]

There is a Forum for oil at "Bob is the Oil Guy". You have to register, but it is an impressive forum for oil discussions. They also have some info you can access without registering. There is also an oil analysis at the IBMWR website.

I have used Mobil 1, 15W-50, in my bikes for years. I bought a bunch of 5 quart containers at Walmart on sale. If I understand correctly, viscosity is expressed as a range. Again, based on my understanding, the 15W-50 and 20W-50 are essentially the same product. The 20W-50 was introduced due to Harley Davidson viscosity requirements. The 15W-50 is significantly less expensive, and I believe, will provide equal protection.

[bmwmick]

BMWAG has a deal with Castrol. So they recommend it in all their vehicle manuals authored in Germany, bikes or cars. On the car side in the USA, they use it. On the bike side in the USA, BMWNA has a deal with Spectro who makes all their BMW branded oil. It tests out very well and comes in dino or synth. I have used the synth 15W50 for years now.

Jack,
I think you'll find that the SSEO (Super Synthetic Engine Oil) that BMW promotes is formulated by Valvoline. I've seen the SI Bulletin. :)
Page down to the middle of the page here: http://www.beemershop.com/tech00.html

[GlobalRider]

Any suggestions?

I'm curious.

When is the last time anyone had an oil related failure or a worn out engine due to oil, be it conventional or sythetic, when following the recommended maintenance intervals? I'm not talking about the time you blew an engine because there was no oil on the dipstick. Thats an operator problem.

[Mr. Frank]

I sometimes see old cars which smoke heavily under load. I assume lack of proper oil changes has done them in. I'm guessing that using good oil and changing it frequently relates more to longevity of optimum performance than to the avoidance of catastophic failure.

[GlobalRider]

I sometimes see old cars which smoke heavily under load.

Old? Just follow a few year old Chrysler minivan.


I'm guessing that using good oil and changing it frequently relates more to longevity of optimum performance than to the avoidance of catastophic failure.

Yes, but how many riders have 310,000 miles on their motorcycle? A co-worker does just that, he uses name brand "mineral" oil and changes it according to schedule. His 1993 Toyota Camry just passed the 500,000 kilometer mark a few months back. Thats 310,000 trouble free, engine never been opened, miles. Of course, the Toyota part probably has a lot to do with that.

When we put those kind of miles on our motorcycles, then maybe we should lose sleep as to what goes into it. Till then, I'll just use what is listed and specified in my Owner's Manual.

[cjack]

Jack,
I think you'll find that the SSEO (Super Synthetic Engine Oil) that BMW promotes is formulated by Valvoline. I've seen the SI Bulletin. :)
Page down to the middle of the page here: http://www.beemershop.com/tech00.html

That's the old stuff. The new stuff called "Full Synthetic" is made by Spectro. It's written on the container as to who makes it. I wouldn't have said it was if not. I would have said "I think it's made by...". Interesting how they say "Full" now...but not before. Makes me wonder if it was a synth/dino blend before. I suppose that's really true for all dino oil now anyway. The old bottle didn't say but I somehow always assumed that at least the synth gear oil was made by Valvoline. The new gear oil,75W90 synth is made by Spectro.

[saab93driver]

I'm curious.

When is the last time anyone had an oil related failure or a worn out engine due to oil, be it conventional or sythetic, when following the recommended maintenance intervals? I'm not talking about the time you blew an engine because there was no oil on the dipstick. Thats an operator problem.

Some last generation Saab owners have had sludge problems despite following recommended drain intervals and oil type (mineral) /grade/weight. Latest generation requires fully synthetic oil which is also the fill from the factory, at least according to their book.

I have read Audi, VW, Chrysler and Toyota have all seen similar problem in recent years.

[StevenRankin]

Didn't someone write a good article a couple of years back on the questions of what oil to use?

The author was concerned the anti-friction components of the newer oils has been lowered to prevent cat.con. poisoning. This in tern has lowered the oils friction protection for parts such as cams/lifters.

If I can find the copy of the MOA news I saw this in, I will provide the date of the issue. St.

[SIBUD]

I'm curious.

When is the last time anyone had an oil related failure or a worn out engine due to oil, be it conventional or sythetic, when following the recommended maintenance intervals? I'm not talking about the time you blew an engine because there was no oil on the dipstick. Thats an operator problem.

A good question which goes to the heart of the matter. BMW owners are more anal about oil and filters than any other group on earth. IMO

But the doom and gloom folks who think your do-hicky will fall off because of the wrong (according to them) oil also think Fram filters will ruin your bike's engine in a couple of hundred miles.

Then we haven't really got started on how frequently you need to change your oil, have we? :stick

Oh, and let us not forget the pyramid marketing scheme of Amsoil. Does everyone who uses Amsoil also sell Amsoil?

[SIBUD]

Old? Just follow a few year old Chrysler minivan.

When they had Mitushibi engines they had trouble with valve guides. DAMHIK

The newer ones don't smoke.

[torags]

That's the old stuff. The new stuff called "Full Synthetic" is made by Spectro. It's written on the container as to who makes it. I wouldn't have said it was if not. I would have said "I think it's made by...". Interesting how they say "Full" now...but not before. Makes me wonder if it was a synth/dino blend before. I suppose that's really true for all dino oil now anyway. The old bottle didn't say but I somehow always assumed that at least the synth gear oil was made by Valvoline. The new gear oil,75W90 synth is made by Spectro.

The US had criteria where oil companies could "fondle" dino oil (which is cheaper) to have it defined as synthetic. Castrol syn was dino.

Europe had a stricter standard that required a syn labled oil be actually syn.

Mobil sued the US and lost. Now Mob 1 calls it "super syn" or "Euro blend"
They then marked up the syn when they relabeled it (doncha love marketing?)

I've heard the new US Mobil 1 is the fondled dino. If the syn doesn't say super, full syn, Euro - it's probably syn thats defined that way by US standards.

That said, most of our use will not reach the extended capabilities of these oils -dino or syn.

The old Saab story is one of poorly designed heads that don't allow proper oil drainage, that results in sludge. I haven't heard of moto engines having that problem, has anyone?

My cars have 20,000 mile change intervals and use 0/40w Euro Mobil 1 (no filter changes recommended). The 12,000 mi change - post above is interesting because the owner has had his oil clinically tested.

I do what I feel comfortable doing with the bike, I change every 6K, whether I need it or not.
:laugh

[saab93driver]

The old Saab story is one of poorly designed heads that don't allow proper oil drainage, that results in sludge. I haven't heard of moto engines having that problem, has anyone?




The Saab situation that I am aware of is for 1999-2003 models and had to do with clogged oil pump inlet screens. In Saab enthusiast circles and in part by Saab itself, it was largely attributed to Saab's changing of the inlet screen to a fine mesh which would clog, combined with customers using mineral or semi synthetic oil that would break down due to high temps and going by the extended drain intervals (that Saab prescribed.)

The fix, if caught soon enough is a regimen of engine flushing, followed by more checking and more flushing and regularly using full synthetic oil.

[torags]

The Saab situation that I am aware of is for 1999-2003 models and had to do with clogged oil pump inlet screens. In Saab enthusiast circles and in part by Saab itself, it was largely attributed to Saab's changing of the inlet screen to a fine mesh which would clog, combined with customers using mineral or semi synthetic oil that would break down due to high temps and going by the extended drain intervals (that Saab prescribed.)

The fix, if caught soon enough is a regimen of engine flushing, followed by more checking and more flushing and regularly using full synthetic oil.

Jeeze.. hope they didn't make that mistake in their airplane engines... Jag had a problem that was head related, I thought it might have been the same kind with Saab.

[deilenberger]

Jeeze.. hope they didn't make that mistake in their airplane engines... Jag had a problem that was head related, I thought it might have been the same kind with Saab.SAAB automobiles - despite their ads - has had no association to airplane manufacturining for several decades. They are currently owned by GM.

[Brownie]

To continue the SAAB thread, I don't believe they actually ever produced aircraft engines. I suspect they were RR powered, anyone know??

[hyperion]

I just use whatever synthetic 20w-50 is available at Wal-Mart for my 2004 r1150r with 45k miles. I just don't think it matters all that much.

[Morbius]

Switched to 5W40 Shell Rotella synthetic in my 99 R11S a year ago and change at 5K miles + BMW filter. Less chain tensioner noise for one thing. Like the oil so much I'm running it in both my Saturn 4 cylinder engines, too.

[Bfish]

been using amsoil since 16k on my 2004 RT. the closest dealer to me uses it as well. you'll be fine with mobil 1.

[Troutluck]

Switched to 5W40 Shell Rotella synthetic in my 99 R11S a year ago and change at 5K miles + BMW filter. Less chain tensioner noise for one thing. Like the oil so much I'm running it in both my Saturn 4 cylinder engines, too.

I used this oil for the first time this winter. I also found my bike to run quieter (much easier starting, too).

[Morbius]

I used this oil for the first time this winter. I also found my bike to run quieter (much easier starting, too).

I went to Rotella because it's rated for diesel applications and low ash. If the R259 engine isn't hard on oil like a diesel I don't know an engine that is. Hadn't really noticed any difference with starting, but it is quieter.

[SIBUD]

this amsoil (www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf) test showed the bmw synth to rank just behind the v-twin, and it's cheaper i think. but of course, the amsoil rated best :brow

Gee, wonder why amsoil would rate the best. :nyah

[groeger]

I'm considering synthetic oil for my 2001 R1150GS, but only if I can go longer between oil changes. I use my GS as a commuter and the miles are mostly highway, with an occasional bumper to bumper stop and go traffic. Any recommendations on how many miles I can ride between changes if I go synthetic?

Thanks for any info provided.

[groeger]

Whoops. Sorry, I meant to create a separate post for this.

[bigdelta]

how does the price compare to the bmw synth?

sorry for the delay in responding.

[bigdelta]

There is a Forum for oil at "Bob is the Oil Guy". You have to register, but it is an impressive forum for oil discussions. They also have some info you can access without registering. There is also an oil analysis at the IBMWR website.

I have used Mobil 1, 15W-50, in my bikes for years. I bought a bunch of 5 quart containers at Walmart on sale. If I understand correctly, viscosity is expressed as a range. Again, based on my understanding, the 15W-50 and 20W-50 are essentially the same product. The 20W-50 was introduced due to Harley Davidson viscosity requirements. The 15W-50 is significantly less expensive, and I believe, will provide equal protection.

15 as opposed to 20wt?

[boxerr]

I have used Mobil1 in all of my oil heads (4th now), change it every 10,000ks
(6,000miles). No problems at all, as long as you have done 6,000miles before you use it in a new engine.
Out in Australia, it is called Racing 4T, 15W50 grade Mobil 1.

[osbornk]

Just out of curosity, do you know of anyone who has had an oil related failure of anything with any kind of oil where the oil was changed properly and the level was maintained?

[Isamemon]

the test listed above is impressive, did not see Redline listed, which is what I have been using, but, the amsoil looks pretty impressive

[GlobalRider]

Just out of curosity, do you know of anyone who has had an oil related failure of anything with any kind of oil where the oil was changed properly and the level was maintained?

Exactly what I've always asked and never got an answer to. I've never had an oil related failure.

My co-worker with over 300,000 miles on his car has never even opened up his engine yet and all on dino oil. He just changes the oil and filter regularly and never lets a mechanic touch his car.

[bigdelta]

Just out of curosity, do you know of anyone who has had an oil related failure of anything with any kind of oil where the oil was changed properly and the level was maintained?

if the answer is no,to say that any oil will work if changed at the proper intervals?
Probably so but it's obvious that synthetic does protect/prolong the engine much better.

[osbornk]

if the answer is no,to say that any oil will work if changed at the proper intervals?
Probably so but it's obvious that synthetic does protect/prolong the engine much better.

If you use an oil of the proper viscosity, you change it properly and it meets the manufacturers specifications, the engine will normally outlast the rest of the vehicle. What is gained by paying triple the price for synthetic oil? Besides, most of us get tired of our motorcycle, car or truck long before it is worn out and trade it or sell it and buy something else.

[bigdelta]

If you use an oil of the proper viscosity, you change it properly and it meets the manufacturers specifications, the engine will normally outlast the rest of the vehicle. What is gained by paying triple the price for synthetic oil? Besides, most of us get tired of our motorcycle, car or truck long before it is worn out and trade it or sell it and buy something else.

willing to pay more for better protection for your engine-which synthetics obviously offer.My experience is 3x may be a bit high for that piece of mind;probably 2X+.

[charleshickman]

15 as opposed to 20wt?

I've never seen the V-Twin 20W-50 at Walmart. It is the 15W-50 Mobil 1 that I have used.

[Mr. Frank]

My local Wal-Mart carries the Mobil I V-Twin oil for about $8.00.

[bigdelta]

I've never seen the V-Twin 20W-50 at Walmart. It is the 15W-50 Mobil 1 that I have used.

And what temperature range do you ride in?I was going to run 20W50 in my low mileage 1150 because I thought 15W50 may be too thin for a tropical climate.
But if you have good results with it and I can get it reasonably at Walmart,maybe I'll use the 15W.Maybe Paul Glaves can chime in here.
Thanks.

[saab93driver]

There should be a temperature chart in your owner's manual that give you ranges for different viscosities. Going on memory 15W-50 can be used to the top of the temp chart which should be suitable for what you will see (or what I see in Florida).

However, BMW may officially take exception to Mobil 1 automotive oil since it does not have API spec rating (I think SG) they want whereas M1 Vtwin does. It is a debatable point as to if the API rating is really that critical for the boxer with the separate gearbox and has been debated on about every forum imaginable - you'd have to make up your own mind on that one after you research it for yourself.

BMW's USA branded synthetic that is marketed in the US is 15W-50 but with the BMW desired API rating

[bigdelta]

There should be a temperature chart in your owner's manual that give you ranges for different viscosities. Going on memory 15W-50 can be used to the top of the temp chart which should be suitable for what you will see (or what I see in Florida).

However, BMW may officially take exception to Mobil 1 automotive oil since it does not have API spec rating (I think SG) they want whereas M1 Vtwin does. It is a debatable point as to if the API rating is really that critical for the boxer with the separate gearbox and has been debated on about every forum imaginable - you'd have to make up your own mind on that one after you research it for yourself.

BMW's USA branded synthetic that is marketed in the US is 15W-50 but with the BMW desired API rating

and yes the 15W would cover my climate and if BMW syn is 15W,then I could use the Mobil 1 cycle oil if I can locate it at a decent price.I had every intention of using Amsoil but now realize it won't be available in Honduras.And I can't take it down in my checked baggage.Looks like whatever the dealer has in Guatemala City is what I'll be using.
Thanks.