Oil Sending Switch

[kneedrachen]

my 1986 R80RT has developed its first leak, the oil switch unit. I purchased the new unit and noticed it comes with a copper washer, however the washer is a bit larger in diameter than the shaft of the switch unit. Does this washer need to be placed on the motor (i.e. in a recess or something) or does it simply stay on the shaft and center itself during the tightening process?
Thanks In Advance,
Alex

[Bill Burke]

The new crush washer stays on the new switch. Be sure that the old crush washer is removed and not stuck to the case (it will booger up your new washer). Use a socket to install the new switch, and not an open end wrench. 24mm socket, I think. The open-end wrench can twist the plastic/rubberized core and separate it from the metal switch housing, causing the new switch to be damaged and to leak. Do not over-torque when installing the new. Sort of like a new spark plug- hand tight down to stop, then torque to just tight. Operational test, tighten a tad more if it's seeping. That should do it.

Edit Alert: Alex, if you go out to buy or borrow a 24mm socket, get the deep socket.

[kneedrachen]

Thanks Bill~ :clap

[kneedrachen]

Bill, job is done, thanks for the help!

[Bill Burke]

You're welcome Alex. Good job.

[kneedrachen]

It was my first airhead repair...I had to order the socket from SK tools, the socket was 21 bucks! more money than the part! no one, and i mean NO ONE stocked a 24mm deep socket so I was caught between a rock and a hard place. either way I have it for future use and as a reminder for my baptism in to airhead ownership :D

[Bill Burke]

It was my first airhead repair...I had to order the socket from SK tools, the socket was 21 bucks! more money than the part! no one, and i mean NO ONE stocked a 24mm deep socket so I was caught between a rock and a hard place. either way I have it for future use and as a reminder for my baptism in to airhead ownership :D
Ouch. Now you can help your friends when their oil switches need a changeout, and maybe one of 'em will have the 27mm you need to do a swingarm bearing lube...

[kneedrachen]

27mm, looks like SK will be getting some more business. . . :doh

[osbornk]

I changed the unit on my 86 R80RT last year and didn't have any problem finding something to fit it. I don't recall but I may have used a 6 point close SAE or something but I didn't have any problem with the 15 minute job. It looks just like the switch on an old VW Bug and many other cars.

[kneedrachen]

I changed the unit on my 86 R80RT last year and didn't have any problem finding something to fit it. I don't recall but I may have used a 6 point close SAE or something but I didn't have any problem with the 15 minute job. It looks just like the switch on an old VW Bug and many other cars.

I'm also doing this with one arm as my shoulder was destroyed in an accident. Kudos to you and your mechanical abilities, it's small steps for me.

[PHMarvin]

Hi,
I don't remember needing a 24mm deep socket when changing the oil pressure switch on an airhead. I think I used a large Mexican Speed Wrench (Crescent wrench), although the 24mm deep socket is probably the "correct" tool. As far as contacting SK for a 27mm socket for the swing arm bearing nuts, Sears will be happy to sell you either a 27mm socket or a 1 1/8" socket. Both will work well after turning (or grinding) the outside to where it will fit inside the swing arm. Also, the taper at the bottom of the socket should be removed, as the nut is very thin and you want the socket to contact the nut the entire width of the nut.

[kneedrachen]

PH i only used a 24mm deep socket and not a wrench after a caveat that using a wrench could twist the nut part from the epoxied center section...I was too paranoid to take a chance. Thanks for the tip on the swingarm, I'll keep it filed for when I get to that part of the bike. I'd also rather buy the socket at sears as SK is a bit expensive!

[pmdave]

As you get your pinkies dirty getting into the finer points of airhead maintenance, you'll gradually acquire a number of tools, such as deep sockets with the ends ground down to fit the specific BMW location. For cylinder head work, you'll need the big exhaust nut wrench.

Here's the way I figure it: the cost of the tool to get the job done is equal to or less than the labor to have someone with the tools do the job for you. And you'll have the tools to do the job again next time--or help a fellow rider do the job.

Of course, you'll need some place to store your tools, so hopefully you have a garage and won't be expecting to store them under the kitchen table.

pmdave

[kneedrachen]

LOL, yes I have a garage, as I just got married though, it's filled with fine china I will probably never use along with more Mikasa crystal which I'll also never use. Not to mention the relentless boxes of dish towels, candy dishes and other gifts of bridal showers and the wedding. . . :banghead I've already bought a huge tool box on wheels to start storing tools, I'm starting off from scratch so a relatively large socket set, metric wrench set, sae wrench set are there, now I'm accumulating in drips and drabs. I spent some time at bobbmw.com today looking at their tools, looks like a good selection of specialty stuff there. now i'm noticing the ever delicate balance on cash flowing out is inversely proportional to the inflow of tools. . . :laugh never can have enough can we?

[stardw]

27mm, looks like SK will be getting some more business. . . :doh

If you need a swingarm socket already turned down, contact Walt Steele. For $15, he will make you one. Here is a quote from the Airhead Digest on what to do.

"The sockets I start out with are nothing special but they aren’t junk. They
are what ever I can get cheap.

Here’s what I do: If you want one of my sockets you email me your snail mail
address. I will then mail you a socket along with a self addressed stamped
envelope. You then put $15 [preferably a check] into the envelope and send
it back to me. Does this sound fare enough? I buy the socket, do the
machining, package it and pay all the postage.

Please believe me, I am not making a killing on this. I consider it a labor
of love. I can’t help but believe that most airheads would rather have a
socket that has been nicely turned down rather than ground down [ouch].

Let me know if you want one."

Walter Steele, ABC #4457, 231-796-0864, 17603, 21 Mile Road, Big Rapids,
MI 49307 walts88@hotmail.com

[willtraubel]

An 86 and only it's first oil leak? Sure there's oil in the crankcase?

Got a 92 and love it, leaks and all. Best part, you can fix 'em yourself.

Check out the Airheads Beemer club. I can't remember his name, but there's a guy I remember mentioned there that makes the "special" BMW tools himself and sells them at a fraction of the dealer cost. There are non-BMW tools made for BMW's. I have an exhaust nut wrench that I got for $27 from Amol BMW in NJ, official BMW wrench was nearly $75. Go figure.

[Bill Burke]

[QUOTE=Check out the Airheads Beemer club. I can't remember his name, but there's a guy I remember mentioned there that makes the "special" BMW tools himself and sells them at a fraction of the dealer cost. There are non-BMW tools made for BMW's. I have an exhaust nut wrench that I got for $27 from Amol BMW in NJ, official BMW wrench was nearly $75. Go figure.[/QUOTE]


Ed Korn is the man:

http://www.cycleworks.net/

[kneedrachen]

the oil pan gasket has started to weep but no leaks, the bike is up for sale, i need to sell, riding days are over for a very long time now that i am post op won't be able to use my arm for a while and have to generate $:banghead