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The_Veg
12-04-2006, 04:24 PM
Some of this applies to motorcycles too:

Automotive Tool Definitions

Hammer:
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive car parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.
Mechanic's Knife:
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing convertible tops or tonneau covers.
Electric Hand Drill:
Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling rollbar mounting holes in the floor of a sports car just above the brake line that goes to the rear axle.
Hacksaw:
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
Aviation Metal Snips:
See Hacksaw.
Vise-Grips:
Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
Oxyacetelene Torch:
Used almost entirely for lighting those stale garage cigarettes you keep hidden in the back of the Whitworth socket drawer (What wife would think to look in there?) because you can never remember to buy lighter fluid for the Zippo lighter you got from the PX at Fort Campbell.
Zippo Lighter:
See oxyacetelene torch.
Whitworth Sockets:
Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for hiding six-month old Salems from the sort of person who would throw them away for no good reason.
Drill Press:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against the Rolling Stones poster over the bench grinder.
Wire Wheel:
Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you to say, "Django Reinhardt".
Hydraulic Floor Jack:
Used for lowering a Mustang to the ground after you have installed a set of Ford Motorsports lowered road springs, trapping the jack handle firmly under the front air dam.
Eight-Foot Long Douglas Fir 2X4:
Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic jack.
Tweezers:
A tool for removing wood splinters.
Phone:
Tool for calling your neighbor Chris to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack.
Snap-On Gasket Scraper:
Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot.
E-Z Out Bolt and Stud Extractor:
A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit.
Timing Light:
A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup on crankshaft pulleys.
Two-Ton Hydraulic Engine Hoist:
A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and hydraulic clutch lines you may have forgotten to disconnect.
Craftsman 1/2 x 16-inch Screwdriver:
A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle.
Battery Electrolyte Tester:
A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.
Trouble Light:
The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin", which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.
Phillips Screwdriver:
Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.
Air Compressor:
A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty suspension bolts last tightened 40 years ago by someone in Abingdon, Oxfordshire, and rounds them off.

RedBeemer
12-04-2006, 10:38 PM
This isn't from personal experience is it? :D

rangepig
12-05-2006, 01:13 AM
because you can never remember to buy lighter fluid for the Zippo lighter you got from the PX at Fort Campbell.
Ft. Campbell!? My old stomping grounds, and where I wrecked my R65 twenty (almost 21!) years ago. Hope that Zippo has a screaming eagle (or puking buzzard as those of us who wore it used to say...) on it!

PAULBACH
12-05-2006, 07:00 AM
Simple truths so elegantly stated.

dmr
12-05-2006, 09:58 AM
Thought this was another thread about bad cage drivers. Made me laugh, though. :doh

riderR1150GSAdv
12-05-2006, 11:52 AM
:rofl Thanks, I needed a good laugh :laugh

manicmechanic
12-05-2006, 12:30 PM
I resemble those remarks! :rofl :ha

2beers
12-05-2006, 01:00 PM
Been there, wrecked that. :banghead

crazydrummerdude
12-05-2006, 02:54 PM
So, last year, I rebuilt my bikes master cylinder, put fluid in, bled it a little, and tightened the bleeder valve back up. A weel later, I noticed I needed to rebuild the caliper, and the damn bleeder valve is stuck. Absolutely going nowhere. Why? So, after trying acetylene and other tricks, I gave it "one last try" with the wrench. Twist... snap. Off goes the head of the bleeder valve. So, I bought my own set of E Z Outs. And, hey, I don't have to drill, because the valve is already hollow down the length of it. Cool. Tap the E-Z Out in, give it a twist.... snap. The end of the E-Z out breaks off and is stuck. Impossible to drill through to try the method again. But, just in case I could get it out, I went back to the local hardware store who has a policy of replacing broken tools for free. Of course, this was one of the exceptions. Bought a new E-Z out to replace the one now broken from my set. There my caliper sat for a while (who uses front brakes anyway?), until my brother decided to be ambitious. He took a Dremel and drilled out the remaining bleeder valve around the broken E-Z out tip. It fell out, we cleaned out the caliper, and FINALLY some good news; the threads were spared from the Dremel-ing. Ordered a new bleeder valve and didn't get around to rebuilding the caliper for 6? months. :violin

kbasa
12-05-2006, 06:39 PM
Originally written by Peter Egan and published in Road & Track about a decade ago.

:)

linkadink77
12-06-2006, 06:55 AM
Great post mind if I forward it?