View Full Version : What does the / number signify?
giarcg
11-27-2006, 11:38 PM
After years of riding K bikes and a R1100SBX I finally have added a '84 R80RT project bike to the mix. I'm wondering what the /7 in the model number signifies.
Also, I'm wondering what is going on with the forks. In the picture below you can just barely see that the plating is worn off the front side of the forks and rust has formed. The bike has 65K on it but its hard to believe it is normal wear. Any ideas?
I'm looking forward taking this thing apart and refurbishing it; planning to eliminate the fairing which is beat and making a regular R80 out of it. Any hints or tips relating to this will be appreciated.
Thanks,
jonpporter
11-28-2006, 12:58 AM
i am also new to the bmw world and have seen a couple like that and wondered the same thing myself.
i have a 79 R65 that I am putting back together. you should have it easier than i do. i picked the one that is seems to be totally different from the rest of the r line.
20774
11-28-2006, 05:04 AM
Where does the "/7" show up in the model number for your '84? From what I know, the /7 was the designation used only for the 1977 and 1978 models. After that, it was dropped for just the RS, RT, C, CS, T, etc.
Looks the front of your forks have been beat up by road debris and/or rubbed away by the fork sliders. I'm wondering if the fork seals at the top of the sliders (under the black caps) are allowing metal-to-metal contact...I would think they should also be leaking fluid. The tubes can be rechromed...
Kurt in S.A.
Bill Burke
11-28-2006, 05:13 AM
http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/slash.htm
cjack
11-28-2006, 06:58 AM
Where does the "/7" show up in the model number for your '84? From what I know, the /7 was the designation used only for the 1977 and 1978 models. After that, it was dropped for just the RS, RT, C, CS, T, etc.
Looks the front of your forks have been beat up by road debris and/or rubbed away by the fork sliders. I'm wondering if the fork seals at the top of the sliders (under the black caps) are allowing metal-to-metal contact...I would think they should also be leaking fluid. The tubes can be rechromed...
Kurt in S.A.
Frank's in Evanston, IL have reasonably priced fork tubes. They have been in the business for 40 years or so. They have excellent tubes for BMWs. BMW's are excellent of course, but lots more money.
Frank's Maintenance and Engineering, Inc.
945 Pitner Avenue
Evanston, IL 60202
For more information, please call the office at 847-475-1003 ears or so.
DarrylRi
11-28-2006, 08:23 AM
Here's a writeup I did a couple years ago on BMW bike naming (http://darryl.crafty-fox.com/motorcycles/bmwbikenames.htm).
The_Veg
11-28-2006, 12:10 PM
R1100SBX
While we're at it, what the hell does the 'BX' in this one mean?
DOINTHETON
11-28-2006, 03:25 PM
the fork tubes on my 9200 mile 83 r80rt were horribly pitted when i picked it up on labor day. replaced them with franks fork tubes. a ton less dough than bmw. hpoe your sitting down on that price quote. put new fork boots on to help protect the new tubes.
here's a rundown of what you need to convert to a un-faired bike:
part#31 42 301 607 front turn signal mounts (2)
part#63 23 1 243 442 turn signal assembly (2)
part#31 42 1 236 878 headlight bracket left
part#31 42 1 236 879 headlight bracket right
part#61 12 1 243 206 turn signal wiring harness (2)
part#31 42 1 234 908 rubber fork gaiter 11 rib (2)
part# 07 12 9 952 121 hose clamp (4)
you also need 2 roll pins to secure the boots, sorry no part# on those. i think i spent about $150.00-$175.00 total on these parts new. i scoured ebay for the stuff and the parts went used for about 70% of new price, and hope what you need is listed at the time. oh, and i ditched the high rt bars for a set of used "S" ones.
a tip to help curtail your parts costs. peddle all your fairing bits, plus your rt bars on ebay. you'll be surprised what that stuff will bring.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v224/billpack/HPIM1952.jpg
kbasa
11-28-2006, 03:47 PM
While we're at it, what the hell does the 'BX' in this one mean?
It means it's a Boxer Cup bike.
giarcg
11-29-2006, 04:15 AM
While we're at it, what the hell does the 'BX' in this one mean?
Veg - Kbasa is correct, it's the Boxer Cup version of the R1100S.
giarcg
11-29-2006, 04:24 AM
the fork tubes on my 9200 mile 83 r80rt were horribly pitted when i picked it up on labor day. replaced them with franks fork tubes. a ton less dough than bmw. hpoe your sitting down on that price quote. put new fork boots on to help protect the new tubes.....
Thanks to all for the info and especially the parts rundown Dointheton. I take it from your list that I can use the existing headlight bucket that is in the fairing..correct?
The bike has obviously been down on both sides and the fairing has had botched repair jobs in several places. Not sure how valuable it is. I do very much like how your '83 turned out...that's what I'm shooting for.
The shift lever has huge amounts of play on the pivot bolt. What's the normal fix? Install a bushing, larger pivot bolt, replace??
crazydrummerdude
11-29-2006, 08:40 AM
I really don't like fairings, so when I took my Windjammer fairing off...
$40 for a good used reflector from IBMWR.org
$50 for a pair of good used alloy turn signal housings from IBMWR.org,
$11 for a new wiring harness from MAX BMW for the signals,
$63 for the wiring harness from MAX BMW for the
$12? for the clips from MAX BMW that held the..
$39 lens in, from MAX BMW.
$107 for the chrome ring to hold everything in place, from the BMW dealer that has since disappeared (they messed up the price and I got it for about $40 cheaper than I've seen it new elsewhere)(I regret buying it new as I've seen good used ones for half the price).
Wow, $362 total. That's more than I remembered. I might be off by about $20. But , I sold the fairing for $150 off the BMWMOA Flea Market, so that makes it a little more reasonable. Regardless, I am MUCH happier with a naked bike.
Bill Burke
12-03-2006, 05:16 AM
The shift lever has huge amounts of play on the pivot bolt. What's the normal fix? Install a bushing, larger pivot bolt, replace??
The fix is a nylon bushing in the lever. Both the tranny and brake levers have these. The bushing wears down over time and creates the slop. Replacing them will make the lever action feel like new. You'll be glad you did it. From the airlist archives:
The bushing part number is 32 72 1 232 662, it sells for $1.00.
giarcg
12-04-2006, 06:30 AM
The fix is a nylon bushing in the lever. Both the tranny and brake levers have these. The bushing wears down over time and creates the slop. Replacing them will make the lever action feel like new. You'll be glad you did it. From the airlist archives:
The bushing part number is 32 72 1 232 662, it sells for $1.00.
Excellent...thanks.
I just discovered that the forks have already been replaced as I found "forks by Frank" stamped on them at the top. Might have something to do with the wear present.
DOINTHETON
12-04-2006, 09:56 AM
Excellent...thanks.
I just discovered that the forks have already been replaced as I found "forks by Frank" stamped on them at the top. Might have something to do with the wear present.
i would contact them and see if there's any warranty regarding the rust. i seem to remember they do....................
Bill
giarcg
12-06-2006, 05:21 AM
the fork tubes on my 9200 mile 83 r80rt were horribly pitted when i picked it up on labor day. replaced them with franks fork tubes. a ton less dough than bmw. hpoe your sitting down on that price quote. put new fork boots on to help protect the new tubes.
here's a rundown of what you need to convert to a un-faired bike:
part#31 42 301 607 front turn signal mounts (2)
part#63 23 1 243 442 turn signal assembly (2)
part#31 42 1 236 878 headlight bracket left
part#31 42 1 236 879 headlight bracket right
part#61 12 1 243 206 turn signal wiring harness (2)
part#31 42 1 234 908 rubber fork gaiter 11 rib (2)
part# 07 12 9 952 121 hose clamp (4)
you also need 2 roll pins to secure the boots, sorry no part# on those. i think i spent about $150.00-$175.00 total on these parts new. i scoured ebay for the stuff and the parts went used for about 70% of new price, and hope what you need is listed at the time. oh, and i ditched the high rt bars for a set of used "S" ones.
a tip to help curtail your parts costs. peddle all your fairing bits, plus your rt bars on ebay. you'll be surprised what that stuff will bring.
Located and bought the headlight supports on ebay and have all the rubber rings, turn signals (cheap!), boots and other bits and pieces coming from Chicago BMW. Total invested about $150...including a new set of grips. Not bad. I didn't spring for the turn signal harness as I can fab those.
I plan to clean up the fork tubes, ensure they are straight and rotate them 180 degrees so the rough area is on the backside. That way the rough area will see high loads under braking only. Then cover all with the boots. That's my plan anyway, need to see how well they clean up.
I can't find a reference for the roll pins. What funtion do they have and were are they located?
Thanks again for the help.
20774
12-06-2006, 06:06 AM
I can't find a reference for the roll pins. What funtion do they have and were are they located?
I think the roll pin is #3 in this diagram:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0448&mospid=47877&btnr=31_0313&hg=31&fg=10
although it doesn't have a number here.
The hollow pin fits into two holes on the underside of the lower yoke to allow trapped air inside the gaiters to escape when the front end dives under breaking. There should be holes that go completely through the yoke. You could probably go to your favorite home improvement store and find something that works.
Kurt in S.A.
crazydrummerdude
12-06-2006, 08:33 AM
Hopefully you got the alloy turn signals. The plastic ones, although cheap, look cheesy.
giarcg
12-06-2006, 07:05 PM
The hollow pin fits into two holes on the underside of the lower yoke to allow trapped air inside the gaiters to escape when the front end dives under breaking.
Ok, that makes sense. I should be able to come up with something locally for that. thanks for the info.
giarcg
12-06-2006, 07:07 PM
Hopefully you got the alloy turn signals. The plastic ones, although cheap, look cheesy.
At $12 each I'm sure they are plastic...as are the rear ones. Your right they are cheesy but good'nuf for now.
20774
12-07-2006, 05:58 AM
Ok, that makes sense. I should be able to come up with something locally for that. thanks for the info.
I also forgot to mention that the pin helps align the gaiter...there should be a correspdonding hole in the gaiter.
Kurt in S.A.
giarcg
12-09-2006, 07:29 PM
Since I removed the fairing I need to relocate the ignition switch. Can anybody tell me where the stock location is for the R80?
cjack
12-10-2006, 07:52 AM
Since I removed the fairing I need to relocate the ignition switch. Can anybody tell me where the stock location is for the R80?
I believe it would be in the left side of the headlight. Remove the dummy bolt there and mount the ignition switch as it was in the '80 R80.
barryg
12-10-2006, 12:34 PM
Back to the / symbol. A lot of the books written about BMW's have English authors. They like to use the word stroke in place of slash. Stroke 5, Stroke 6 for examples.
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