Trying to upgrade my R90/6...please advise

[rbryson]

I am new to the club (second post) and am trying to learn how to maintain my R90/6 which I bought new in 1975, but have ridden very little over the last three decades. Now that I have time, I want to upgrade it some and I'd like to tap into the wisdom of those who know much more than I. Enough said, would I improve the bike's performance with electronic ignition and if so, what brand/make should I get? How do you feel about dual plugging? Also I am looking into better shocks and have heard progressive springs are better than stock. How complicated is it to change springs? Which of these projects would be better done by a local BMW dealer? Am I overlooking something very basic and cost effective for an R90/6? And, which project is something an novice could do. Please advise. Thanks

[Motor31]

If you are looking for something a novice can do I'd drop the double plugs at this time. You are talking having to have the heads machined for the second plug.

At this time I'd sit down and start to decide what you are trying to accomplish here. Are you looking for better reliability IE. electronic ignition?? Are you looking to make it into a cafe racer and need to increase speed? Are you just looking for firmer suspension and beter handling?

First, my recomendation would be the handling. Updating the suspension is easy and straightforward. You can stiffen the front shocks just by draining them and adding a higher viscosity oil. Ride it and see if that makes an improvement for you. If it isn't enough you can change the springs in the front and go again. After market shocks and fresh springs on the rear can stabilize the rear end. Ride it again and see what you think. Change the tires composition to match what kind of riding you want to do. You can improve braking by cleaning out the front brakes and replacing the lines with metalic braid lines. Maybe change the front pads to a more agressive compound. Check the rear for wear and maybe new pads there as well.

These are the easiest things to do for a new wrench.

After that you can go with the ignition change and start to look at making changes there.

[ssls6]

I am new to the club (second post) and am trying to learn how to maintain my R90/6 which I bought new in 1975, but have ridden very little over the last three decades. Now that I have time, I want to upgrade it some and I'd like to tap into the wisdom of those who know much more than I. Enough said, would I improve the bike's performance with electronic ignition and if so, what brand/make should I get? How do you feel about dual plugging? Also I am looking into better shocks and have heard progressive springs are better than stock. How complicated is it to change springs? Which of these projects would be better done by a local BMW dealer? Am I overlooking something very basic and cost effective for an R90/6? And, which project is something an novice could do. Please advise. Thanks

I would make my "job 1" focus to be getting the most from the existing bike. A fresh tune, spline lube, cables, carb rebuild, shock adjustment/fluid change, brakes, the list goes on and on. Spend some quality time learning, wrenching, and riding with the girl you've got.

[The_Veg]

I did read in your post that you bought the bike new- but just like vision and hearing, springs deteriorate so gradually over time that you probably didn't notice it happening.

Now since you've owned the bike for more than 30 years, I could guess that you're already proficient with keeping the engine in proper tune. If that's the case and you know that you are dissatisfied with the ignition, I can make a recommendation. The Omega Ignition (not to be confused with the Omega alternator sold by Motorrad Elektrik) is a good unit for several reasons and I hear it's priced pretty reasonably. I know several people who use it and I also know the importer and can vouch for him as an honest character.
The strength of the Omega ignition is that it does not physically replace the points- which means that if it fails out on the road, all you do is disconnect it and reconnect the points. You can also select several different advance-curves. It also eliminates several other potential problems with mechanical ignition due to things such as worn advance mechanisms or bent cam-noses. More info about Omega here (http://www.stephenbottcher.net/~omega/).

[Bob_M]

Welcome to the forum. :wave

Get to know the bike and love it for what it is. There are not enough upgrades in the world to make this work like a new motorcycle. The R90/6 has enough power and reliability to go the distance or to get one in trouble with the law (or the laws of physics). Improvements in one area (power/brakes) may expose weakness in another area (swing arm stiffness/fork or chassis stiffness), A campain of upgrading can begin a cascade of spending, so proceed carefully. It is not unusual for a casual mechanic to fix stuff till it is broken then take it to a professional mechanic. This can increase the cost by lots.

That being said, Veg mentioned the Omega charging system (Motoradd Elektric). This can be installed by a capable shade-tree mechanic. With the additional power you could run some electric gloves and some classic style driving lights. The same company has a LED tail light that is quite bright and a safety improvement.

A billet top triple clamp may be available for the /6 model (I don't know)

EBC and Spiegler have brake disc upgrades. The Spiegler cast iron disks have good bite and feel but they can rust and get dirty. Conversion to dual disks is not an uncommon upgrade.

Comfort. If you set the bike up for long rides, or for Cafe sprints pretty much determines the level of comfort you will need. The seat and shocks should reflect the type of riding you will use the bike for.

For the few items I mentioned you could easily spend more that $2000 in parts. Proceed carefully.

For bench racing or BS sessions the most effective upgrade is appearance. Set the bike up for riding, but make it clean, and sharp and stylish. That "upgrade" might just be the most satisfying.

Oh yea. Pictures please :clap

[barryg]

It looks like to me that U have a pretty good stock bike. I would live it in that condition and just do normal rebuilds on the components that would normally need those rebuilds. Examples would be steering head, swingarm, wheel bearings. Forks rebuilt, with heavy duty stock or aftermarket progressive springs. Over time a lot of the plastic and rubber parts deteriorate and need to be replaced. Examples of this are the fork boots, swingarm bearing covers, the rubber covers over the cables, stuff like that. The stock points ignition is more than adequate. Modern electonic ig. is not a bad upgrade if U don't like to do points adjustments. It's also a not seen upgrade and keeps the stock look. The 90/6 is a nice period piece and a pleasure to ride. I have a 74 R90/6 that has given me thousands of miles of great rides.

[Isamemon]

Ill agree with Bob
I got off a big rice bike and onto this old airhead
and that is so cool that this is your old scooter, way cool, you own a 30+year old scooter , since new,,,,,nice
my airhead , well Im second owner, its 30+ years too..........

my first month was .........I want to do this and do that
then , with posts here, and a slap or two in the face, from Bob and many others, I accepted the fact I ride a 30 year old scooter and it wont be the same as a newer "ABS, injected computerised bike" thank god :D and if I wanted that, well, I can spend a few grand more and get a oilhead, or go cheap and back to rice or BIG bucks and dealer only work
so after you acept the fact your riding a classic that you can bust knuckels on in your garage, and give yourself classic stopping distance, youll be ok
and probabally one of the best benefits, is
when I rode rice, young kids said. "wow cool"
now guys my age go, "wow cool"
Id go for approval of the briefcase crowd over the boarders (skateboard)
but thats me, im gettin older, and the onlookers dont mean squat now...
so....., like I am now, shoot for reliability , easy roadside repairs, and go from there
carb overhauls, clean all electrical contacts, change every fluid, new wheel bearings and seals,new innner tubes, well greased and lots of synthteics
and like someone else said, new non dealer brake pads and stainless brake lines will make a big difference
a side stand that stands up your bike, or my modifications
for me, however, dual disc are more important then a electronic ignition
I really want dual pinchers
my only complaint, even with ebc pads and stainless, is I wish I could stop this old girl faster
an a few weeks ago, my bro in law took a bad hit, not his fault, but dual disc might have helped, , now he has a trashed airhead and a bunch of broken bones.....
and rear brake, shucks, thats just there for modulating speed and saying, yes I have a rear brakes ( I have ebc there too and that was an improvement)

love me ol' air head

[rinty]

RB:

Bob M nailed it. I had an airhead for 15 years, and spent thousands on upgrades, before moving into an oiler. Print out his post and memorize it.

Have fun and welcome.

Rinty

[AntonLargiader]

Improving the suspension is probably the best thing you can do. Don't just change the fork oil; disassemble and really cleam/inspect the forks. Replace the rubber bumpers. Check to be sure the fork tubes are aligned perfectly, and be very careful on reinstallation to be sure you have a fork that moves smoothly before you even put the springs back in.

There are several good replacement shocks that have recently come on the market from Wilbers and others.

If the motor starts easily, don't even think of spending money there until the suspension is right. You can make the suspension much better than it was when new, but not so the motor. And you'll enjoy the suspension more.

[rogermansfield]

I broke down and bought IKON shocks for my 1980RT. They made a big difference. I didn't realize how bad the old ones had gotten. New fork springs are not that expensive either.

[ccolwell]

Ditto much of the above. Safety and handling go together -- start with tires and brakes, in particular a steel brake line. Then do the suspension, front springs and oil, fork brace, shocks in that order. Then stop. If you want more power, get another, newer bike.

[rinty]

I didn't realize how bad the old ones had gotten.... rogermansfield

According to Joe Minton, in his seminal article on airheads, the suspensions were so bad that it wasn't unusual for the springs to be sacked even before they left the show room floor.

Rinty

[vanzen]

aha, so it's a "seminal article" now is it? Thought it simply a quaint period piece ...

be that as it may, Minton's "BLACK_TIE BOXER" is still an imformative tutorial for improving the Type 247.

one may download the article here (thanx to Doug West):
BLACK-TIE BOXER (http://s8.quicksharing.com/v/9081999/BTB.PDF.html)

[rinty]

Vanzen:

Yes, it grows with every reading. For years I had only a photocopy of it, and then I found an original magazine in a used bookstore, so the article went into my ever growing Boxer Binder.

Dave Anderson of Anderwerks also thinks it's the locus classicus of airhead pieces.

Oops it just grew again.

Rinty

[barryg]

To me this is this has turned into a very interesting post. Probably because I own a 74 R90. Mine was a close to stock model in '87 when I bought. It came with a Wndjammer II fairing and a aftermarket rear rack and trunk. It had the small gas tank and the S fork covers, not the ribbed gaiters. It was agood runningbike, but generally ratty in appearance. I rode the heck out of that bike, probably more than most BMW riders on a lot newer BMW's in that era. Most of them wanted to know why I didn't get a newer bike, I was making them look bad riding that tattered rough old /6. I started upgrading the bike just to keep it going. I added Koni's, Krauser Star bags, still rode the crap out of it and it still looked it too. In '90 I took the bike totally apart, and did a complete economy resto. on it. The bike looked pretty good and started to get a little bit of attention. Still the diehards wouldn't give it much credit. It wasn't a S, RS, GS or /2 version highly sought after and prized. No investment potential from what I understand. I was sitting with my friend;David Adams,from the great stateof Va.; at our Bulow campsite during Bikeweek. Some one commented that they didn't care for /bikes. David,also a /bike rider like me, laugh about that to this day. I rode my 90 over 30,000 more miles, then moved on to the more socially acceptable K100RT and R1100RS. But they don't have half the character of my 90 and never will.
So the question is what upgrades? If you rebuild the bike back to original condition it was, you will have a great bike. The 75 R90 was the best standard bike You could buy that year.

[Bigrider]

I have a '76 R90/6 and have not change a thing (yet). I agree with the comments on the suspention and purhaps a change to electronic ignition. These are the upgrades I'm considering. No need to touch the engine, it's big enough and dependable enough. The only item that bothers me is the turn signal. I really have to think left up; right down. Not very intuitive, but you get use to it after awhile.

Dave H
San Antonio, TX

[sagerat]

Ahem, and more than once I've gone to thumb the turn signal and hit the starter switch by accident.

Horrible noises ensue.

[barryg]

That is one cool twin. I guess the only way to get a chance to ride a bike like that is build one. :heart

[Isamemon]

i guess the " backwards" turn signals dont bug me, actually they are not that bad
yet I grew up riding non "USA" bikes and non "USA" cars
my first scooter was a italian bike in 1963
I think it the usa it was sold as a bridgestone
cars, we were cheap there too
one of our favorite cheepies was the renault "r" cars , they were neat, much better then a vw
think of it, when you could buy an aircoolled vw bug in the late 60's., or you could buy a car with 4 wheel discs, independent suspension, a HEATER that worked ( water cooled) and all for the same bucks
the biggest propblem was dealerships, and I bring this up because its not unlike reading the latest ON magazine, thats the problem with BMW scooters, poor dealers, adn not enough dealers.
but if you have grown up riding rice rockets and other things designed for the USA then yep , the old airhead swithces might be a concern ( as well as low redlines if you like the whine sound, cheap repair prices, and a dealer as near as or next door to your local 7-11)

hey it was not until this second that I saw, that I was always into "R" machines, renault r 8-10. and now my scooters, "R" sreies
oh man Im gettin old

[tvrla]

The way I always remembered which way to flip the turn signal switch was considering the grips:

Left turn = right grip comes up - flip the switch up
Right turn = right grip goes down - flip the switch down

[tuber1]

...I read a few of the other posts and agree with some. I bought a 1975 R90/6 in '77 it was nearly new, about 12k miles, had a Luftmeister fairing and Krauser bags, I too rode lots of miles with little more than basic maintanence. In those days we didn't do 'spline lubes', once in awhile someone would lose an input shaft. I did change the rear shocks to Koni, now Ikon I guess, and new heavier front springs, but that's about all. Those bikes didn't handle very well, or stop very good, but prob the best bike I ever owned. Once at Falling Leaf rally, when it got down to about 28 deg at nite, next morning my bike started when brand new ones wouldn't. One of my fave stories.





I am new to the club (second post) and am trying to learn how to maintain my R90/6 which I bought new in 1975, but have ridden very little over the last three decades. Now that I have time, I want to upgrade it some and I'd like to tap into the wisdom of those who know much more than I. Enough said, would I improve the bike's performance with electronic ignition and if so, what brand/make should I get? How do you feel about dual plugging? Also I am looking into better shocks and have heard progressive springs are better than stock. How complicated is it to change springs? Which of these projects would be better done by a local BMW dealer? Am I overlooking something very basic and cost effective for an R90/6? And, which project is something an novice could do. Please advise. Thanks

[Isamemon]

santa brought me a set of Hella's for my scooter, they arrived early
thanks bro
anyway
will my old airhead alternator run a extra pair of 55 watt halogens
they came off his wifes sportster
( I am the only family memeber not riding harley :laugh, then again, they all live on the east coast , yikes, ok let it fly, im bad :bolt )

[86208]

I too ride a r90/6 and consulted with my local and trusted dealer; Hansen's in Medford Oregon regarding an upgrade to my ignition system.

Craig warned me against installing electronic ignition. The incoming power simply isn't clean enough.

Food for thought.

Keep your stick on the ice. Jack

[bobh41]

one may download the article here (thanx to Doug West):
BLACK-TIE BOXER

This is the result of my query:

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This file has been downloaded times already.

File name:
File size: MB
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[535is]

This is the result of my query:

File Deleted!

This file has been downloaded times already.

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It's a two-year-old thread ... :doh

[manicmechanic]

My '76 R90/6 has bee upgraded as follows - Progressive springs infront, Hagon shocks in back, Dyna3, and Omega. In/on the Hannigan fairing there are 35w PIAA's, a Gerbings heat-troller, XM, and Garmin mount. It is most satisfying to be able to ride in cold weather, after dark, with all the lights on and the Gerbings doing its job, and still charge the battery.

[crazydrummerdude]

The way I always remembered which way to flip the turn signal switch was considering the grips:

Left turn = right grip comes up - flip the switch up
Right turn = right grip goes down - flip the switch down

We must have different switches..

[paulfinney2]

I tell myself it is down right up lefting to ride my '76

[santarosa]

Just got an '84 r100 in good running order so this thread is of interest to me and much appreciated. I clicked on "Black Tie Boxer" but pop-up indicates "this file deleted". Does anyone know where else to look for this well respected article? Also, the Metzlers have good tread with very light side wall cracking. My concern is in regard to grip at this point given the years since I last rode a motorcycle. Thank you.

[nealart]

My mantra when I had a 1975 was:

It's a downright crappy switch and it's leftup to me to figure it out.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

Just got an '84 r100 in good running order so this thread is of interest to me and much appreciated. I clicked on "Black Tie Boxer" but pop-up indicates "this file deleted". Does anyone know where else to look for this well respected article? ...

I think that article might be copyrighted or something and removed. I seem to recall reading something about that on another post--maybe it wasn't the same article though.

Does anyone know where the article can be found/bought?

[20774]

Does anyone know where the article can be found/bought?

It was from the August 1984 issue of Motorcyclist written by Joe Minton. You could check with the magazine and see if they would sell you a back issue.

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/index.html

[rpeckham136133]

Request for sources: I have heard the Joe Minton reference several times, did a google with BMW and airheads, and his name comes up, but no links to original works...

Does anybody have any articles that could be scanned and posted... sounds like it would be a valuable sharing of seminal (!) knowledge.

Thanks!

[beemerPhil]

My mantra when I had a 1975 was:

It's a downright crappy switch and it's leftup to me to figure it out.

I love this one!:thumb

The only thing I'd recommend offhand for your bike, other than finding a competent airhead tech to do a complete A to Z, is a regulator that works. You can get one from Motorad Elektrik, or any good auto electric shop.(ask for a 3-wire Delco-type solid-state regulator) All the stock /6-7 regulators seem to cut out too early; proper maintenance of a 12-volt battery doesn't happen at 13.5 volts, and practically all of the bikes from the 70s & 80s have a hard time starting in cool weather as a result- plus the (expensive!) battery that should last 5-8 years only makes it half that far. Besides, your bike has the best headlight in the industry(at the time)- don't you want to see where you're going?

If you haven't already, replace all the small o-rings in the cv carbs. They make more difference than you think.

Steering head bearings don't last forever, but it takes someone who knows what he's doing to tell the difference. The shop manual and "official" tools are useless here.....find a guy that knows how to do this right. Use a good quality waterproof non-hardening grease.

I got sick of points, been installing and using Dyna III's since the first dual plug jobs I did back in the early 80's. The failure rate is negligible; I ride cross-country on one every year, this one's at least 15, maybe older. Keep the mice out of your wires in the winter and you'll be fine.(Bring your old points with you if you're nervous)

On the subject of dual plugs......great idea, much better solution to crummy gas than the thick base gaskets, makes a very strong engine. Lots of fun! Also pretty expensive...(it really only makes $$ sense together with a top-end re-seal anyway, so it's cost is added to a valve job and rings, etc- expect a bill for $500-1000+ depending on your karma, your mechanic, and how long you put it off. Also, this is NOT AT ALL a job for a novice wrench, or a novice machinist either; there are lots of opportunities to screw up, and the parts involved are expensive. Find someone who's done it successfully a few times before - there's no trophy for guinea pigs, and the cost of new heads will put a cramp in your ride for sure!
:gerg

Shocks are always worn out, but you'll get an extra couple lifetimes with Koni 7610's; the adjustable damping rate allows you to compensate for tired internals over time. Not anybody's favorite racing shocks, but they work well in general, they're reasonable $$ and they're rebuildable.

I don't get all the hype about fork springs- I have so many sets of in-spec oem BMW fork springs I started making lawn ornaments out of them. They never seem to wear out or collapse (if you can prove otherwise, send me some, but learn how to measure them FIRST) but they always get replaced!
(job security??:dunno )

I like the RS springs- white paint code- or Progressives. They seem to work best for me (235lbs, ride fairly hard and sometimes carry lots of camping stuff) if they're shimmed up about 3/4" with a spacer of pvc tubing, and with a 50/50 mix of 5 and 10-weight PJ-1 fork oil. (BMW fork oil is for sewing machines)
Make sure the fill quantity is accurate, too- BMW allowed for the first inch or 2 of travel to be hydraulic-free, for washboards- and too much will just make the forks stiff and pop seals.

Martini's empty, charcoal's ready....that's all for now. See you in Gillette!

:kbasa

[barryg]

I've got a copy of the Black-Tie Boxer by Joe Minton. Hot R100S in a tuxedo, ought to be in a James Bond movie. :thumb