Do Heated Riding Vests Strain Alternators and Belts

[RTNewbie]

First off, I've not had an alternator problem. Secondly, I'm sorry if this is a silly question.

I was thinking as I forced coffee and toasted my breakfast this morning, "That toaster must really draw some amperage" which led to "I wonder how much amperage the heating elements in a Widder heated vest draw" and finally "Cripes! That might burn up alternators and belts on bikes!"

Does anyone know if there is any validity to this?

-The pop-tart was disappointing

[dronning]

There are tons of posts about this.

No issues with the alternator - it's putting out max all the time the voltage regulator dumps the excess power to ground.

Basically it's a race to keep your battery charged.

Lets say you have 2 set of jackets, pants, gloves, 200 watts of extra lights...... you may still have enough juice left to keep your battery charged even with the some ABS/Linked brake use.

Convert it all to watts add it all up and see if you have exceeded the alt output, too much draw and the regulator doesn't have to dump any power to ground because you are using it all and you start to drain the battery.

Disclaimer>>>>This was a very simplistic explanation

Dave

[BradfordBenn]

Also something to consider is what controller you are using. If you are using a HeatTroller or similiar with a blinking LED, it is turning itself on and off at that rate. This means that for a second you are pulling the maximum then it is off. So if you have a volt meter on it, it can look funky.

But you should not have any problem. My hunch is that your vest is in the 77W range as most jackets and vest are about there. And luckily the RT has one of the most "excess" energy coming out of the alternator.

[Boxerkuh]

This is not an issue with oilheads. Your alternator cranks out around 720 watts. Your bike will take less than 75 watts when it rides (55w for the head light, 5w for the tail lite, 10w if your have running lights, 5w for the instrument lights.) Now if you have driving or fog lights you mights add another 70w; well you are now at 145w.
A heated jacket and pants will use 70 watts (normally) each. So that would add another 140 watts; if you are using a vest only it more than likely take about 45 watts.
The Airheads come stock with 240 or 280 watt alternator, so you see how close you can come up to 200... that is why the 400 watt kits are so popular.
Hope that helps you a bit more... You can plug up just about anything you want and be okay....

[PacWestGS]

Don't know if this is a 'Slight' problem or not. I know on some models (GSs) that have two "Accessory" ports that one (the lower one next to a foot peg) can handle much more wattage/amperage than the one up by the handlebars.

If you plug a jacket/vest into the one by the handlebars I think it's rated to 5 or 15 watts only and will blow the breaker.

Check you owner’s manual for where to plug in larger items like a jacket/vest/pants.

I think it is recommended that if you run something like Jacket, pants, gloves you should hard wire the controller to the battery or through a fuse panel.

Just my .02

Doc

[Xaque]

BradfordBed touched on it but I think it's worth stressing:

Consider a voltage meter hard wired (even something with a simple Green/yellow/red led) for piece of mind.

-Xaque-

[AntonLargiader]

No issues with the alternator - it's putting out max all the time the voltage regulator dumps the excess power to ground....

That's not how VRs work. Rather than catching the excess output, they just cut back the input.

[dronning]

That's not how VRs work. Rather than catching the excess output, they just cut back the input.

Not quite right.
Depends on the type of regulator used, active regulators (essentially) dump the excess current not needed by the load.

Did you see "Disclaimer>>>>This was a very simplistic explanation"

Like I said a very simplistic explanation only to make the point that the alt doesn't care about the load. You have to understand your load verse the output to understand if you will drain the battery.

We could get into control theory and negative feedback control loops, AC & DC stabilizers, linear/switching/active regulators how AC is converted to DC etc.. but that wasn't the question.

Just install an amp/voltmeter and forget it.

Dave

[AntonLargiader]

Depends on the type of regulator used...
OK, let's be sure we're talking about the type used in Oilheads, since this is where he posted the question. These are basically automotive units. F650s, for instance, are a whole different story.

You have to understand your load verse the output to understand if you will drain the battery... We could get into control theory and... but that wasn't the question.
We're using slightly different interpretations of 'alternator.' The question, as I read it, is about alternator and belt load so I'm considering the alternator+regulator assembly as one, since that's what applies the belt load and will have to be replaced if it 'burns up.'

To the best of my knowledge, belt load increases with current draw. If you think Oilheads behave differently I'm all ears! (can't find the :ears emoticon). On the Oilheads with iABS, you can sometimes notice the idle stumble slightly as the pumps spool up.

[bmwmick]

Not quite right.
Depends on the type of regulator used, active regulators (essentially) dump the excess current not needed by the load.

Dave,
Anton is absolutely correct here. The automotive-style alternator on our Oilheads (and earlier K-Bikes) are almost free-wheeling at normal engine RPM with a good battery installed. I can actually drop my idle speed from 1,100 RPM to about 900 RPM by switching ALL my lights on. :thumb Since I have about 410 Watts of lights, it is a significant current draw on the electrical system. It also adds to the load on the alternator belt.

For the Newbie question....No, there is no significant load penalty when you use a heated vest. They are normally only about 48 Watts but even the 77 Watt Gerbing jacket liner would be an insignificant load.

[soffiler]

Just to beat up on Dave/dronning a bit more: the VR on an automotive-style alternator controls field energization. The stronger the field, the higher the output, and vice-versa. The VR has no idea how much current is being consumed by the vehicle; it monitors system voltage only (hence the name, VOLTAGE regulator). There is no dumping of excess current to ground. That would create a LOT of heat.

And for Boxerkuh: you've neglected battery recharge in all of your wattage statements. Immediately after a cold-start, the battery will pull in easily 10-20 amps of recharge current (140-280 watts) which tapers off over a period of several minutes or more as the battery charge level comes up. Once fully charged, there is still a trickle-charge consumed full time on the order of 15-30 watts.

[GlobalRider]

"I wonder how much amperage the heating elements in a Widder heated vest draw".

Less than your standard headlight. The average vest draws 44 watts or just over 3 amps.

Nothing to worry about.

[will3hawks]

The Widder vests draw aprox 55-60 watts if that. If you have an RT, RS or R you have a 700 watt alternator, ergo you have a minimum of 590 watts to run your bike which is more than many bikes have to start with. Airhead riders have only 280 watt alternators and many of them run the vests. I started using Widder vests in 1983 on Honda's and Suzuki's with far less wattage and have NEVER had any trouble. Stop freezing and get warm!

Regards,

Will