Poly Belt Replacement

[Godfather]

My 99' 1100 RT will be hitting the 36k mile mark soon. Alot of the general service items I can do...oil, tranny, F/D, valve adjustment, plugs, brake pads (if needed). I read the manual about the poly belt, is it really needed, and how big a PITA is it to change, and can it be done with tupperware in place? I plan on having the dealer do brake fluid, and TB Sync, but like to do what I can safely do myself. Thanks for all the help.

[BubbaZanetti]

my 99S is about to hit the same milage mark and i have a poly v belt sitting on top of my computer monitor as i type waiting to go into the bike. defenetly a tupperware off job from what i can tell, probably a tank moved back job too. this is one of the few maintence items i've never dealt with on this bike and i'm debating the loading the torque wrench method vs the twist the belt method for tensioning as i've never been very good with low torque values :laugh

[rs36vh]

Jump right in, if you have a manual go for it. I have a 2000 rt,all I had to do is pull left side plastic, I used the torque wrench method 3,000 miles ago and every thing is fine, and I would say yes to doing it if you don't like sitting along side the road. My belt at 32k was like a worn out rubberband.

[r1dinman]

It's an easy job to do. In addition to the belt, you should have crush washers and an O ring for the oil line that you have to remove to replace the belt. Most dealers forget to tell you that when they sell you the belt. If you don't have them, you are probably ok, but they are cheap and it's work to gain access to fix a leak should one occur later.

[JimMoore]

Some bikes have the oil line, some bikes don't. It's a vent line anyway, so it is not a big deal if you don't replace the crush washers IMO.

[RiverRat280]

I just used a prybar on the alt to tension the belt, maybe not as good as using a torque wrench but 6k miles later and still looks and runs great.

[dan_forker]

OK, I've just got to ask the stupid question. I have a R1200RT and don't have a clue what "belt" you are referring to. Clue me in. Sold my GL1800 and bought a 1200RT and never looked back. No idea what took me so long to figure out why all those BMW riders had such a ear to ear grin on their faces. Now I know.

Dan Forker

[PacWestGS]

OK, I've just got to ask the stupid question. I have a R1200RT and don't have a clue what "belt" you are referring to. Clue me in. Sold my GL1800 and bought a 1200RT and never looked back. No idea what took me so long to figure out why all those BMW riders had such a ear to ear grin on their faces. Now I know.

Dan Forker

Glad to have you Dan. Welcome to the club :D

The Poly V-Belt is located on the front of a Boxer engine, behind the plastic cover. It's the Alternator Belt between the crank and the alternator. Don't know about the Hex-head but the 11XX requires replacement at 36K miles intervals so it won't break or start slipping.

HTH

Doc

[Boxerkuh]

Yes, the Poly V belt does need to be replaced at 36K. Some are looking pretty good and could have gone to 50K, others look like they were ready to give out soon. Depends a little on how much you ride every year. It is not that difficult to check out, simular to checking your alternator belt on your car, but it will take you about an hour or so to get to. You will need to remove the tupperware.
If you have a manual you might be able to do it yourself, if you believe in your own mechanical abilities. From the sounds of it, you might want to take it to the dealer, because without the belt your bike will not run.

[PacWestGS]

Boxerkuh,

So I see in my Clymers that a special tool (part # 12-3-551) is required to change this on an 1150. I see that others have done this without.

I also see that it says if you have the Resilient Poly-V or ELAST (identified by a small raised triangle on the engine cover) "Have your dealer perform this change and adjustment". Because three special tools are required?

I let my dealer replace mine the first time, but was thinking about the future.

Just asking... :wave

Doc

P.S. I don't have the raised triangle on my cover (that's an '02 R1150GS)

[bmwmick]

My 99' 1100 RT will be hitting the 36k mile mark soon. Alot of the general service items I can do...oil, tranny, F/D, valve adjustment, plugs, brake pads (if needed). I read the manual about the poly belt, is it really needed, and how big a PITA is it to change, and can it be done with tupperware in place? I plan on having the dealer do brake fluid, and TB Sync, but like to do what I can safely do myself. Thanks for all the help.

You have to remove the left side fairing to access the 3 bolts securing the alternator. This would be a good time to split the front plastic alternator belt cover in half. You'll understand once you have completed the removal. :) The left side 'shark fin' has to come off before you can remove the one-piece cover.
Spliting it in half horizontally just above the reinforcing will let you remove it on the road with no fairing removal. If you carry a spare belt, you can cut the old one off and just use the starter to spin the new one on in most cases.

I use a Goodyear Gatorback #4040245 segmented poly -V belt on my '96 R1100RT.

Here is a little more info:

This is a good site for belt nomenclature.....
http://www.goodyearbeltsandhose.com/cars/gatopoly.html
I think the new segmented serpentine belts will flex better around our pulleys and may last longer. Guess we'll see. I have about 20K on mine so far.
Bought my belts here ......
http://www.pickproparts.com/PartsList.aspx?PartNumber=4040245

[Mr. Frank]

Just as a heads up, I think the later model oilheads take a slightly different size belt. Can someone confirm?

[bmwmick]

Just as a heads up, I think the later model oilheads take a slightly different size belt. Can someone confirm?

Yes,
After 07/2003 they all got the new ELAST belt 4PK592 or BMW
P/N 12 31 7 681 841

[Mr. Frank]

Yes,
After 07/2003 they all got the new ELAST belt 4PK592 or BMW
P/N 12 31 7 681 841

Thanks, Mick. Is there a Gatorback Goodyear belt that fits that size?

[bmwmick]

Thanks, Mick. Is there a Gatorback Goodyear belt that fits that size?

Well Frank,
If it was mine, I'd probably try using a 4040235 Gatorback.

BMW went to that ELAST belt and the freewheel pulley to try to get the
belt to last 36K miles. With the Gatorback, you'd go back to the normal
tensioning but I'm not totally convinced that would work as well as the ELAST belt since it would need more tension than the free-wheel pulley was designed for. The Gatorbacks do grip the pulley better but in the end, it's your call. :)
The ELAST belt is set up for a specified distance between the pulleys, NOT for a specific tension like the previous Poly-V belt.

[mgordon]

For what it's worth, i just changed mine. Took about 20 mins. I just used a box wrench 13mm, torque wrench (for tightening not belt pre-tension), and a large/long screwdriver to wedge up the alternator to get the belt tensioned. Mine is a 94 R1100RS, so it has the old style belt. My service rep said pulley replacement is not necessary, plus these belts are only $20, so worth replacing, rather than an expensive upgrade to maintenance-free belt/pulleys.

[OldNuke]

Here's a short video on changing and adjusting the belt.
https://www.bmwmc.net/uploads/tm11/Poly%20V-belt%20sequence_medium.wmv

[Boxerkuh]

I always took mine in to the dealer, I just did not trust myself. But checking it out ahead of time is not a bad thing. I am with you.

[Boxerkuh]

Here's a short video on changing and adjusting the belt.
https://www.bmwmc.net/uploads/tm11/Poly%20V-belt%20sequence_medium.wmv

and this is the cat's meow!!! Love this video, makes very do-able!!!

[PMonk]

I have looked at Capitol Cycle, Max, A&S catalogs on line.
None seems to have the part.

What are alternatives to using the tool?

BTW the video is great.

[dbrick]

Approach the lower-left tensioner from the rear with a hex key, like is shown in the video for the R12C.

[OldNuke]

I have looked at Capitol Cycle, Max, A&S catalogs on line.
None seems to have the part.

What are alternatives to using the tool?

BTW the video is great.

I got the tool by calling A&S with the part # from the video.

[Ozonkiller]

I say go ahead and tackle the job yourself. I think it's better to try it, even if it's a bit of a struggle, in the comfort of your own garage than to try and figure it out along the side of the road somewhere where there ain't no dealer :stick

My two cents

Tom

[PAULBACH]

Great video. Wonder if the whole set is available on CD or DVD?
:thumb