Oil change on 93 k1100lt

[waylap]

I have a desire to start changing my own oil and filter on my 93 k1100lt with 12,000 miles but have no clue where the filter is. Question is what filter do I need, where is it and what tools will I need? The bike is just about showroom condition and I want to keep it that way.

[PGlaves]

I have a desire to start changing my own oil and filter on my 93 k1100lt with 12,000 miles but have no clue where the filter is. Question is what filter do I need, where is it and what tools will I need? The bike is just about showroom condition and I want to keep it that way.
Look at the bottom of the engine. On the forward left side of the bottom you will find a round plate with a few fins and 3 ears with capscrews (bolts) holding it on. The filter is attached to the bottom of the block, inside the oil sump, directly above this plate.

You will need to drain the oil first, then remove this plate. The filter takes a cup type filter wrench - I like the one made by Hazet and sold by BMW dealers. Some auto parts store wrenches can be coerced into working.

The filter for the K75, K100, and K1100 bikes are the same as used on the oilheads, except the 1200s.

[SheRidesABeemer]

Sounds like you are starting from scratch. Stop by the dealer and ask for the filter kit, it comes with the filter and rings. Ask if you can watch an oil change. Suprisingly the K bike oil change has not changed in 20 years, so watching most any K bike will do. My '87 K75 has the same oil change as the '03 GT!

I had a friend show me how to change the oil. I'm a learn by watching (doing), I could have spent a week trying to figure it out with a book. I still get the plate placement confused, it looks symetrical but it's not, it only goes on one way.

12K on a '93...showroom condition...nice find. Now go ride it! :dance

[PHMarvin]

Hi, Waylap,
I agree with Paul about the Hazet oil filter tool. I bought one 10 years ago from the dealer for about $17 then - I have no idea how much they are now - and it has worked well. There are US-made metal tools which also fit and will work, and are considerable less expensive than the Hazet at your FLD (Friendly Local Dealer).

I use the OEM filter. If I could find either the Mahle OC-91 or the Donit filter (both OEM suppliers), I wouldn't hesitate to use them, either. Fram also markets a filter to fit our K-bikes. The filter number is 6063. Don't confuse this with the automotive filters which, supposedly, "will fit" or "will work". Many people used the Fram 3614 (I think - maybe it was 3416) filter BEFORE Fram began coating the bottom of the filter with "Sure Grip". The Wix, NAPA, Purolator, etc. equivalents maybe also "will fit", but in Harriet's and my bikes, I use the OEM filters and once or twice have used the Fram 6063. Use a good 20w50 conventional oil until the bike has covered about 20k miles and the engine is truly broken in. Then, continue with the conventional or change to synthetic - whichever you want to do. I use Mobil 1 15w50 synthetic in Harriet's K75 and will use it in the K1100LT as soon as I finish using the conventional oil I have - one more change. (The bike has 21,650 miles on it.) When using the Mobil 1 synthetic, I change the oil and filter once a year or at 10k miles, whichever comes first.

In changing the oil filter, when you remove the old filter, make sure the old rubber gasket comes out with the filter. I fill the new filter with new oil and spread a drop or two of oil around the new rubber gasket. I tighten the filter about 3/4 of a turn after it contacts the seating surface. I wash out and dry the cover plate and the "O" ring. I have a new "O" ring in case the old one is too deformed or compressed or has a cut in it, but normally I reuse the "O" ring. I do not reuse the drain plug gasket. I add about 3 1/2 qt. of oil (including the oil in the filter) and then go for a ride. When I return, I top up the oil until it is even with or just a bit above the center dot in the sight glass. BTW, when I'm tightening the capscrews on the oil filter plate, I get them snug. I don't remember the torque spec, but it is NOT "two grunts and a fart". Get them tight; don't ring the heads off the screws!

Ride Safe,

[Colt03]

Phil,

very well said. I also use Mobil 1 15-50 (down to my last case of red cap). I change it every 10K with a new BMW filter.

Bike now has 125K on it.

For a wrench I have one I bought for my wifes old Jetta and it fits, I do use a piece of emery cloth lining the inside if it is really tight.

I would also recommend using a 1/4" drive socket so as not to over tighten the allen bolts attaching the plate, snug but not to tight. The first time I changed the oil I am lucky I didnt strip the bolts.

HTH

[roy]

the recommended bolt torque for the filter cover is 7 nM which = 61 in/lbs

overtightening can and will cause the bolt heads to break off.

From memory I THINK the drain plug is around 21 - 23 nM = 15.5 - 17 ft/lbs

You do not need to remove the drain plug IF you don't have a crush washer. Just carefully remove the filter cover and the oil will drain out.

NOTE: Loosen a couple of the screws and then slowly and carefully loosen the last screw and let the oil slowly run out.

Roy

[SheRidesABeemer]

Do folks really torque their drain plug and bolts for an oil change? It's not like they are stress bearing. :dunno The only tools I use are right in my bike tool kit. Except the filter wrench...

[waylap]

Thank you all very much for the assistance with my maintainance. I have ridden BMW's for years but never joined the club, but am sure glad I did now. I'm looking forward to many more years of riding and soon looking to add a newer R1150RT as a distance tourer.

[DaveMisevich]

Hi folks, new guy here. :) Does anybody have an opinion on these Bosch oil filters? http://www.beemerboneyard.com/11421460845s.html

Thanks,

[Hodag]

Do folks really torque their drain plug and bolts for an oil change? It's not like they are stress bearing. :dunno The only tools I use are right in my bike tool kit. Except the filter wrench...

I did a couple of times until I got the feel for how tight it should be.

[PHMarvin]

Hi folks, new guy here. :) Does anybody have an opinion on these Bosch oil filters? http://www.beemerboneyard.com/11421460845s.html

Thanks,

No, I have no opinion on them. I would guess they are better that Fram, Purolator, Wix, etc., but I don't know.

[roy]

Hi folks, new guy here. :) Does anybody have an opinion on these Bosch oil filters? http://www.beemerboneyard.com/11421460845s.html

Thanks,

Dave, there has been a lot of discussion about filters on the BMWLT website. The Bosch sold by Beemerboneyard has always been recommended. They also sell the drain plug crush washers and filter cover O-Rings.

The filters to stay away from are Fram with the sure grip coating.

Roy

[DaveMisevich]

Thanks for the bmwlt reference Roy. I'm new to the BMW scene, looks like I've got a new forum to keep an eye on. ;)

[roy]

Do folks really torque their drain plug and bolts for an oil change? It's not like they are stress bearing. :dunno The only tools I use are right in my bike tool kit. Except the filter wrench...

I still use a torque wrench since I have a very bad tendancy to over tighten everything. The Filter cover bolts are very Susceptible to breaking the heads off if over tightened especially on the 1200 LTs and Gt's. BMW for some reason increased the torque from 7 Nm to 9 Nm on these bolts. This is precariously close to their breaking point. Drain plugs would probably strip the threads out of the pan if over tightened repeatedly.

If you are gentle a torque wrench is probably not required.

Roy

[maxscycle]

[QUOTE=SheRidesABeemer]Do folks really torque their drain plug and bolts for an oil change? It's not like they are stress bearing.


To tight and you chance stripping the oil sump, to loose and you chance the plug falling out.

[cjack]

[QUOTE=SheRidesABeemer]Do folks really torque their drain plug and bolts for an oil change? It's not like they are stress bearing.


To tight and you chance stripping the oil sump, to loose and you chance the plug falling out.

For some reason, the drain bolts always seem to tighten up by themselves. I've never heard of one falling out. I use new crush washers, tighten until snug and then go just a tiny bit to tight.

The best torque wrench in the world is the right arm of an Italian...

[SheRidesABeemer]

Do folks really torque their drain plug and bolts for an oil change? It's not like they are stress bearing.
To tight and you chance stripping the oil sump, to loose and you chance the plug falling out.
5-6 oil changes a year for the last 5 years and no problems, so I guess I'm doing it right. I bought my first torque wrench when I started taking the rear tire off to get it serviced...I figured those where some bolts I'd want on properly! :)

[bmwmick]

Hi folks, new guy here. :) Does anybody have an opinion on these Bosch oil filters? http://www.beemerboneyard.com/11421460845s.html

Thanks,

Dave,
Those are Bosch #72161 filters and yes, they work. I used them for a
while when I could not find the stock BMW filter. They usually cost about $4 at Checker Auto when they have them in stock.

[bikerfish1100]

these tested very well, and i've been using them with fine results for several years now. an added benefit is that it only takes a 14mm (or is it a 15?) socket for install/removal.
http://cyclegear.com/lpgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=TUC_40-1489_G
KN163 is the correct part.