View Full Version : New tranny, now clutch lever floppy. ?
CTHalk
10-21-2006, 10:54 AM
The saga continues. I finally broke down and got a BMW remanufactured gearbox to replace my bad one in my RT-P. Now I have it in, and the clutch lever is floppy. With everything adjusted to the max positions, the lever just starts to have resistance. I triple checked everything before I put the gearboox in. Still, human error is possible. It was a bear getting the box to go in (used an alignment tool), and I don't want to go through that hassle again. Any thoughts about what I may have done wrong? Thanks for any help....I am starting to consider a Ural!
CTHalk
10-21-2006, 11:18 AM
I have removed the clutch actuating lever and piston. The clutch rod looks like it is not protruding from the housing very far. How far should it protrude (say, from the flat stepped part of the rod to the case surface)? Is it possible I put the diaphragm spring in backwards? Arrgg. Hal
AntonLargiader
10-24-2006, 05:57 AM
Is it possible I put the diaphragm spring in backwards? Arrgg. Hal
I would think that you'd notice looseness in the clutch during reassembly if that was the case. But that's the most likely cause. The spring is correctly installed so that it's convex when viewed from the rear.
By 'adjusted to the maximum' I assume you mean fully threaded out on the handlebar and fully threaded in on the clutch arm? Just checking...
bdiver
10-24-2006, 11:12 AM
sounds like you have air in the lines - is this a Hydraulic clutch? IF so then you need to do a bleed job. I've owned Honda Magnas and Sabres for the past 23 yrs and they have the hydraulic clutches and everyone runs into the same situation.
Best of luck,
CTHalk
10-26-2006, 06:55 PM
On the throwout arm on the gearbox, I adjusted the bolt inward toward the rod end. I had looked at the handlebar lever and noticed that the adjuster was all the way in. I will move it out. I was thinking back to the old days when I had a bike that required the handlebar lever to be screwed out as things wore. Now, I am thinking that on the oilhead, the adjuster should be out when the clutch is new, and screwed in as things wear? My mind's eye needs glasses. Hal
AntonLargiader
10-26-2006, 07:04 PM
You need to set it by the book, if possible. Adjust the top so you have 12mm of exposed threads at the top. Adjust the bottom so you have 7mm of lever gap at the top. If you can't achieve this, something's wrong with the bike.
CTHalk
10-29-2006, 04:28 PM
Thanks for the tips. I have the lever adjusted properly, and wow, what a nice smooth and easy clutch lever pull. Now to get the bike back together! Hopefully I won't need any more parts, because Canton Cycles (my local BMW dealer) no longer carries BMW cycles or parts! I first found them in 1978 when I pulled an old R60/2 out of a cement garage. I had to by a bunch of rubber parts and other small things to get it going. Their shop was in an old house back then. I liked visiting them. BMW will now be carried by Gengras Harley Davidson of Hartford. Times change! This may not be new news here..... sorry if this is a repeat. Hal in CT
vBulletin® v3.8.6, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.