Valve adjustment question. Might be important?

[Ubertino]

So, I'm working on those valve clearances today, get the alternator cover off (seperate story) and the valve cover... I'm on the left side jug, get the flywheel to OT, and, Ta Da! there is no clearance. I move the crank through the entire range of motion, and at no point can I slip the feeler in there. I double checked against all the pictures I've found about this fix, and I'm putting it in the right spot...

On the same vein- if I have the crank at OT for one jug, how then do we use that mark to make the piston on the other side reach it's furthest point?

On the alternator cover, it's a bitch to get back on. None of the holes seem to line up just right. And I lost one of the screws, dropped on the ground, found the washer but no screw. Spent friggin 30 minutes trying to find the thing! I should be ok to ride it to the dealership to get another one, right?

Any thoughts from the collective wisdom?

[rado360]

when you say no clearance do you mean the correct size won't go or there is no clearane at all?Also one rev. of the fly wheel will bring up the ot mark for one side then one more rev. will bring the same mark up for the other side.

[pmdave]

CW # 7,899,538:

Spread a cloth on the ground under the bike before you remove any fastenings. If nothing else is handy, use your rally T shirt.

CW " 7,899,539:

If there is NO clearance between the valve stem and rocker arm with the piston at top dead center on the compression stroke, DO NOT run the engine until you set the valves for correct clearance.

CW #7,899,540:

To find the compression stroke, watch the valves actuate as you turn over the engine. Watch for the exhaust valves (the front ones) to open, then close, then the intake valves (the rear ones) to open, then close. When the intake valves close, it's awfully close to TDC on the compression stroke. Turn a smidgen more to line up the timing mark. Same drill for the opposite side.

CW # 7,899,541:

It's a LOT easier to turn the engine over with the spark plugs removed. With the transmission in 3rd gear, you can rotate the rear wheel to turn the engine, without removing the front cover.

pmdave

[Ubertino]

Thanks all! I'll try on the beast again tomorrow. I've been running for 7k with the valves adjusted as is, so I'm thinking that it's operator error on my part. Tomorrow I'll take out both plugs and covers and see what the piston and valves say.

Thanks again!

Adam

[PUDGYPAINTGUY]

The first time that I checked mine I had a similar result and then I realized that I was turning past the OT for the other cylinder and so each time I saw the OT sign and stopped the flywheel it had cycled around to the same cylinder.

My remedy was to never take the alternator cover off anymore as I was distracted slightly, instead I put the bike into 5th or 6th gear on the stand with the rear wheel elevated slightly, then with my left foot I gently rotate the tyre around by placing the sole of my shoe against the front of the tyre. 5th or 6th gear allows for a very incremental movement without needing to fight the engine (as I don't take the plugs out). I hold a flashlight into the timing hole looking very carefully down for each pass of the OT mark. No problems since doing this.

[Ubertino]

And this is why I love the forum! I was hoping that it was operator error.

[j-budimlya]

you can wiggle the rocker arms by hand.....they will have a few thousands of gap...hence the wiggle....and all four will have some wiggle on the correct side...

you can put a long skinny screwdriver into the spark plug hole and when the piston reaches the top of the stroke.....the will stop moving out and start going back in...

You can be a few degrees off TDC and the valves will be the same....the cam is flat at this point....

And you should have both spark plugs out before starting this so it is easy to rotate the engine...and it's easiest if both valve covers are off too...

[FatChance]

No matter which method you use, be sure you are rotating the engine in the direction that it normally runs to locate the "OT" mark (i.e. do not spin the engine "backwards" if you go beyond the "OT" mark). Otherwise, the slack in the cam chain can cause incorrect valve/cam positioning relative to the crank position.

[Ubertino]

Did it, no problems. I screwed up the first time by not moving the little thingies that we gap with- those little conical thingies, whatever they're called. There was surface tension holding them to the valves. Adjusted both sides, started the bike up, now all I need to do is a tbs. Going to talk to some local guys who have the machines to see if they'll help out (I don't have the stuff, never done it before, etc.)

Thanks for all the help board, difference between doing it and doing it right!

Adam