My complete newie question: '76 90/6 what to look out for?

[sagerat]

Hi, all. I've got an '04 GS and and '04 Ural Tourist. The latter has lured me to the siren song of the Airhead.

Local fella has a '76 R90/6 for sale for $3,200 with 80K on the clock. I test rode it today and noticed the braking was less than awe-inspiring.

Pulled in clutch and stabbed back brake and it acted about what you'd expect from a drum rear. Pulled in clutch and used front brake and it was even less stopping power. Hmm.

So what are the known deficiencies/troublespots/be sure you check X for this kind of bike? I would use it as a daily commuter with the occasional overnight trip and riding would be one-up, primarily.

What do these Beemers get for mpg, assuming I'm riding it gently. Basically, the wife likes the looks of a new Royal Enfield, but I'd prefer to get an older Beemer. Thanks in advance for any info.

[manicmechanic]

I see that you are interested in the model with the original anti-lock brakes. :doh I also have a '76 /6. While the brakes may not be nearly as powerful as those on more modern bikes, if they're in good shape they'll work pretty well. Just remember that in all cases you should always allow yourself enough room to stop, no matter what bike you're riding.

[DarrylRi]

80k on an iron-sleeved-cylinder motor is getting to be time to bore the cylinder and check the valves and seats. Do a compression test and a leak down to get an idea how much more cash will be needed in the near future.

While the single sided ATE disk brake isn't the greatest stopper ever built, it's also possible that it's not adjusted right. If you scribble on the disk with a sharpie marker, the pad should wipe it all off. Maladjusted brakes will wipe only the outside or the inside of the disk.

[Na Cl K9]

The 1976 R90/6 could be tuned to get on the order of 50 miles per gallon
using a careful throttle management policy. The transmissions held together
well compared to earlier versions and power was certainly adequate for just
about all long distance solo touring. Consistent maintenance at the 5K and
10k marks keeps them running for hundreds of thousands of miles. There
were enough of them produced and shipped to the US that parts specific to
the R90 are still reasonable and available. This is a very robust motorcycle.
80K miles means it's been ridden which is better than a low mileage bike
that's been stored for 25 years.

One can add a second front disc brake which does improve the stopping
power as do better brake pads made from more contemporary materials. The
problem you may be experiencing with the front brake not doing it's job
properly could easily be adjustment.

As far as things to look for to avoid jumping off into a money pit type of
restoration, here are some suggestions. Check the transmission for bearing
material like flakes in the oil. A little fuzz on the magnetic drain plug is normal.
Seats are getting very hard to find in nice shape...look for a rusty seat pan
and plan on spending over 200.00 to replace one that is. A hard pull on the
clutch can be a sign of dry splines. A narrow engagement span on the clutch
can be a weak spring and worn disc...requiring parts and service; RPS.

Common leaks are rear main seals, driveshaft boot and pushrod tube
grommets which are all related to age more than anything else. The old style
cork oil pan gaskets leak after ten years or so. Less common leaks are at the
final drive, and cam seal. The under-tank brake master cylinder will leak
if not maintained properly... RPS

Common user related problems are stripped threads in the drain and fill plug
holes and on the valve cover center stud. Sometimes one will find that the
nose on the cam has been broken off...which requires almost complete
disassembly of the engine to replace. Valve adjuster threads get distorted
from over-torquing them... RPS

Check inside the headlight to see how the wiring looks. Is it neat and clean
or are there wires cut/added/taped/disconnected/etc. The electrical system
has a week point and that is the charging system. Upgrades are available but
even so, the wiring must be clean and intact to get the best performance.

Any of these issues can be present in a 30 year old bike with 80K miles on it.
You could be looking at a valve job and a timing chain replacement. A
compression leak down test will find a top end problem but I can't tell you
any other way of finding out about the timing chain except by listening to it
run...At 80K it should already have been replaced.

You could easily spend $2000.00 or more sorting out most of what I've
described. Less if you do the work yourself of course. However, a 30 year old
BMW like this could be made to last your lifetime, your kids lifetime and find
it's way eventually to your grandchildren.

Notice I didn't mention cosmetics.

[sagerat]

Thanks for the info. In the Small World Dept., turns out I know the mechanic that the owner took the bike to a few years ago, so it's been gone through thoroughly.

The brakes may simply be a case of me not being familiar with such slovenly stopping power, given my other bikes have been dual discs on front and single disc on back.

Granted, the Ural is a single-disc front and two drums, but it stops very quickly.

[Junkle]

Some good information here. That said unless it is in really good shape that seems abit high to me (I'm cheap). Even if it is in good shape plan to spend another $500 or so on it to get it to where you want it to be (there is always something on old bikes and cars that can be made better). Also if you are planning to mount a sidecar you will need a subframe as the frames on these aren't as stout as earlier BMW's. Mine has a Dauntless subframe.

Check the front and rear suspension. Unless it has been done recently then both will probably need done (and could run you $500+ depending on if you do the work yourself and what brand parts you go with).

I don't know if any of this helped. They are fun bikes. Always be ready to walk away from a bike that is for sale. If you don't buy this one I am sure another will come around if you wait (and the more of them you look at the more you will be able to assess what might be wrong before you puirchase it).

Good luck,

j

[Isamemon]

first
nice answr from s90rwmb
I too an new to airheads, have an old singel disc, adn brakes are my biggest pet peive to the bike
even old same year hondas beat BMW on this one
however,
a few weeks ago, even though they were not "needed"
I replaced or repacked all wheel bearings, lubed the splines, replaced pads and shoes with ebc parts, bled the under tanks master cylinder ( stupid place) , but one of the biggies, was cleaning and adjusting the front piviot pin on the front caliper. it was real sitff
I dont really know what of all the above made the biggest difference, since they were all done at the same time, but nice improvement

I was told , the rear drum is really just a speed modulator, and I now agree
just dont know if I should now switch the front to a more agressive dsic eating material to try to improve it further, and buy replacement discs every few "K"

love my airhead
of 11 past bikes, love this one the mostest ( my first airhead)

[The_Veg]

Adjusting the brake should make a big difference.

[sagerat]

Bought it and pick it up Monday. I'll keep you posted as we begin to tweak a few things here and there. The splines have been replaced already. :)

[lkchris]

Bike is overpriced.

$3200 will get you an '81-'84 version, a far superior motorcycle.

/6 should be $1500 unless same as new.

[Na Cl K9]

Bought it and pick it up Monday. I'll keep you posted as we
begin to tweak a few things here and there. The splines have been replaced
already. :)

Congratulations! What kind of accessories does it have? You didn't mention
how it looks. Post a photo when you can. The 76 R90 is a great machine-
one of my favorites.

[sagerat]

Here's a pic of the new old bike. Got it for $3100 which seemed a fair price as it had $3000 worth of replacement parts.

In terms of accessories, the saddlebags and the backrest are it. Former owner and his wife went on one last sentimental ride and when they got back he agreed the front brake is not quite up to snuff.

Tweak that and fix the RH mirror which just spins in the breeze and I should be good to go. Even on the ride home I could feel the various control cables coming back to life.

Bike handles very easily and upshifts and downshifts without complaint. Steering dampener was removed at some point in its life and the plastic handle plays whirly-bird in the breeze. :doh

Also, the Ural is my hack outfit. I don't plan to hang a sidecar off of the /6. Price seemed fair compared to what others are going for and after discussing the sale price with other Airhead friends in the area.

Bike passed the final inspection: I had a smile on my face on the ride home. :drink

[Na Cl K9]

Well, you've gone and done it now! You bought an OLD motorcycle. Welcome
to a very special club. It looks like it's complete. The steering damper rod
and handle should be carefully removed and set aside for later. The black
plastic knobs are NLA. (Unscrew the Phillips screw in the center of the knob
and the rod will drop out the bottom of the steering stem...I believe without
having to remove the wheel and fender. Be sure to catch it to prevent a ding
in the paint on your front fender!).

Did you get the original tool kit, tire pump and books with it?

[sagerat]

Did you get the original tool kit, tire pump and books with it?

The bike has the original took kit and tire pump, but the manual is for an R90S/6. Turns out bike is also a '75. My mechanical buddy is showing me how to bleed the front brake tomorrow. With any luck that will cure the "stops like a sled on ice" problem.

[Na Cl K9]

Your R90 should have a production date on a metal tag attached to the
frame on or near the steering head. If it lists the date as 10/75 or later, it is
most likely a 76. Only a review of VIN numbers will produce the correct year.
74 R90/6 USA delivery - 4930001 ~ 4940000 [9999 units]
75 R90/6 USA delivery - 4960001 ~ 4970000 [9999 units]
76 R90/6 USA delivery - 4970001 ~ 4980000 [9999 units]
(SOURCE: SnabbKatalog BMW R50/5 - R100RS Ca. 1978)

Anyway, one way to tell if it IS a 76 is to look at the transmission case. On
the 76 box there is a cast-in ridge running parallel to the frame about the mid
point on the side from front to back. That ridge is not present on the earlier
transmissions. The 5speed transmissions are interchangeable between 1974 and 1979.

The /6 owners manuals featured the R90S and included the other models in
the text and charts inside.

I noticed that your machine appears to have the original shocks which is hard
to believe because they probably needed replaced 29 years ago :)

[OscarMayer]

If that is an actual photo of your actual bike... I'd be questioning if it had been wrecked and try and find out the whole history.

I'm new to airheads too, but have been somewhat fanatical since getting my 1973½ R75/5 in December...

I don't think BMW factory paint ever had evenly widthed pinstripes.

Where there is paint there may be bondo and if there's bondo you may wanna check the frame. Just a thought/observation. I'll try and verify the pinstripe issue if I got time, but you should def. check it out.

[OscarMayer]

My bike is nearing 60K. I've had it since 44K were showing. Last week I replaced a badly worn clutch. If your bike has never undergone a clutch overhaul, at 80K it's way overdue.

The first signs I had that my clutch was worn occurred while excellerating to gain speed on the FWY from oncoming cellphone, nose pickers and the engine rev'ed up but the bike just coasted.... until I backed off the throttle considerably. It got progressivly worse.

Basically question the clutch.

[tuber1]

Hi, all. I've got an '04 GS and and '04 Ural Tourist. The latter has lured me to the siren song of the Airhead.

Local fella has a '76 R90/6 for sale for $3,200 with 80K on the clock. I test rode it today and noticed the braking was less than awe-inspiring.

Pulled in clutch and stabbed back brake and it acted about what you'd expect from a drum rear. Pulled in clutch and used front brake and it was even less stopping power. Hmm.

So what are the known deficiencies/troublespots/be sure you check X for this kind of bike? I would use it as a daily commuter with the occasional overnight trip and riding would be one-up, primarily.

What do these Beemers get for mpg, assuming I'm riding it gently. Basically, the wife likes the looks of a new Royal Enfield, but I'd prefer to get an older Beemer. Thanks in advance for any info.


well, you already bought it, but nearly the same bike I bought for $2500, in 1977, with 12.5k miles on it

[tuber1]

Here's a pic of the new old bike. Got it for $3100 which seemed a fair price as it had $3000 worth of replacement parts.

In terms of accessories, the saddlebags and the backrest are it. Former owner and his wife went on one last sentimental ride and when they got back he agreed the front brake is not quite up to snuff.

Tweak that and fix the RH mirror which just spins in the breeze and I should be good to go. Even on the ride home I could feel the various control cables coming back to life.

Bike handles very easily and upshifts and downshifts without complaint. Steering dampener was removed at some point in its life and the plastic handle plays whirly-bird in the breeze. :doh

Also, the Ural is my hack outfit. I don't plan to hang a sidecar off of the /6. Price seemed fair compared to what others are going for and after discussing the sale price with other Airhead friends in the area.

Bike passed the final inspection: I had a smile on my face on the ride home. :drink



seat and backrest are original style, bags are later model, paint is not original, pinstripes are wrong, and decals missing fom side cover, so it's been re painted. shocks look like BMW factory parts

[sagerat]

seat and backrest are original style, bags are later model, paint is not original, pinstripes are wrong, and decals missing fom side cover, so it's been re painted. shocks look like BMW factory parts

Hey, I bought it to ride it not make it a museum piece. I'll live with the shame of misapplied pinstripes. :D