Nut size on top of forks for 1974 R90/6

[Junkle]

Pardon the stupid question, but I need to buy a socket to change my fork springs and I'm not sure what size the nut is. It's the nut on top of the forks. If you remove the cap it lies under there. Can someone please tell me what size it is so it is easier for me when I go buy the socket?

thanks a bunch and I hope that made sense,

j

[jdmetzger]

It's 36mm.

I had trouble finding one; the local sears stores carry 36mm, but didn't have any in stock. I went to Auto Zone and found one that was pretty pricey; listed as a rear axle socket for an Asian car.

Since that upper spring retainer is so thin, you will want to file/grind down the end of the socket so it's perfectly flat. If you look at a many "stock" sockets, there is an angle cut in the top to make putting it onto a nut easier. Unfortunately, this angle on such a thin nut may not give you full engagement, which can cause the nut to get rounded out. You don't want that to happen. You need good engagement, as those caps are torqued to 80 lb-ft. Same thing with the steering head top cap.

[Isamemon]

according to my wife, Im the biggest nut on the forks

[manicmechanic]

You may find that the 36mm socket also fits the cap at the bottom of the forks slider as well.

[squeaky]

It's 36mm.

I had trouble finding one; the local sears stores carry 36mm, but didn't have any in stock. I went to Auto Zone and found one that was pretty pricey; listed as a rear axle socket for an Asian car.

Since that upper spring retainer is so thin, you will want to file/grind down the end of the socket so it's perfectly flat. If you look at a many "stock" sockets, there is an angle cut in the top to make putting it onto a nut easier. Unfortunately, this angle on such a thin nut may not give you full engagement, which can cause the nut to get rounded out. You don't want that to happen. You need good engagement, as those caps are torqued to 80 lb-ft. Same thing with the steering head top cap.

...so you'll need to have someone machine off that initial taper so that you can get full purchase on the thin nut. You might find those nuts on pretty tight. I did and was having a hell of a time getting them loose. I used an impact wrench and the shock was enough to break it loose.

Kurt in S.A. (actually St. Louis for now...)

[jdmetzger]

...so you'll need to have someone machine off that initial taper so that you can get full purchase on the thin nut. You might find those nuts on pretty tight. I did and was having a hell of a time getting them loose. I used an impact wrench and the shock was enough to break it loose.

Kurt in S.A. (actually St. Louis for now...)

My solution involved a breaker bar with a 4-5 foot piece of pipe over the end. That allowed me enough leverage to get things loose. I had some help holding the forks in place, as you should not loosen them with the fork resting against the extreme left or right "lock". It can put your forks out of alignment, I hear. :doh

[flash412]

I have always just used the tool in the stock tool kit that fits it.

[Junkle]

Thanks for all of the help. I found the socket I needed at the local auto parts store (no need to buy an expensive one when you are just going to grind part of it off). Now I just have all of the work to do. lol

I don't have the tools that originally came with the bike as I purchased the bike used.

thanks again,

j