Difficulty putting in rear axle R100RT (81)

[aerobat72L]

Hi, this is about the dumbest thing I have ever encountered. I carefully removed the rear wheel on this machine to get new tire, and now rear axle will not go back in. I have tried everything I know short of excessive force, and the axle slides right in until it stops against the inside of the left final drive housing. When you look in the hole fron the left side, the axle end appears to be a little low to line up. I have contacted the man whom I bought the machine from, and he assures me that this machine has never been in an accident, or moving incident. He is the original owner. I am in need of help from someone, and the bike cannot now be moved. I am
m a fairly competent mechanic, so this is only making it worse. I can be reached by cell at 401 862-5026. My name is gary

[PeoriaMac]

I assume you're using the steel bar that goes through the slot in the axle to manuver the axle into place. If you're not, use it. Are both shocks set equally? It really shouldn't be a problem to slip the axle through.

Mac

[Isamemon]

Is the bike high enough to get the whell under it and off the ground
is the wheel pushed up tight and meshed into the splines
did you loosen the brake adjuster, so that you have a little wiggle room ( if drum brake)
and of course , you greased the splines right, something your supposed to do nearly everytime you have the wheel off

if still not in, I guess you could remove the axle again, and roll it on the floor like a pool cue on a table, to see if it has aobvious bend

[pmdave]

It could be that the final drive is slightly twisted where it attaches to the swingarm.

Try loosening the final drive attachment nuts, then inserting the axle (using the drift from the toolkit to rotate the axle as you insert it) After the axle is inserted, the nut snugged down, and the left side axle clamp bolt tightened, then torque the final drive nuts.

If there is still an alignment problem, check that the final drive gasket is in place, the correct BMW gasket, and not TWO gaskets.

May we assume that you are cleaning and greasing the axle before installation?

pmdave

[lkchris]

Think your shock absorber may have extended a bit.

Perhaps disconnecting it temporarily may help.

[Isamemon]

do we have a winner yet on what helped ???

[aerobat72L]

Thanx to all...It seems that I noticed that the swingarm had sideplay. There are bearings that seem to be adjusted by loosening locknut on both ends of swingarm pivot points, adjusting pivot pins, then retightening the locknuts. The Clymer manual does not address this, only the replacement of the bearings, etc...Do any of you know the proper procedure for this adjustment, or is it more prudent just to replace the bearings with the attendant complications of complete removal of the swingarm? I have tried to adjust by taking equal turns on both the left and right pivot pins, and am about to see if this rectifies the axle alignment problem. Thanx...Gary 401 862-5026

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, it's hard to imagine that play in the swingarm would cause the axle mis-alignment you mention, since the swingarm is a one piece assembly, and every thing should line up whether it's in the bike or on the bench.

A slightly rotated rear drive where it connects to the swingarm is most likely, or accident damage.

On my R90/6 I use the following procedure to adjust the swingarm after the bearings have been greased;

1) measure the gap on each side between swingarm and frame with vernier calipers. They should be equall.

2) If adjustment is required, loosen the swingarm pivot locknut and adjust each pivot so that the gap is equall, using finger tight force on the pivot only.

3) torque the pivots to 15 lb-ft, loosen, re-torque to 8 lb-ft and check that the gap is equall. Adjust and re-torque to 8 lb-ft if required.

4) using the special 27mm socket adapter, and holding the pivot so it cannot rotate, torque the locknut to the specified torque. (With my tool it is a torque wrench setting of 55 lb-ft for a torque at the locknut of 75 lb-ft??)

Obviously check your service manual to make sure the above is correct for your bike.

regards, Rod.

[28796]

I doubt the side to side adjustment of the swingarm would affect your problem. One other option is that the swingarm is slightly bent.

[Polarbear]

Did the axle come out easily??? If it were bound in there, it would have been hard coming out as well, imo. Have you serviced the bearings lately; meaning out of the wheel, bearing inspection/packing. The simplist things are usually the answer, I've found. The shaft has to go through swingarm,two bearings and the housing, thats all there is to it! Try the axle without the wheel first, just putting it through the swingarm and differential for fit...Then the wheel alone for bearing alignment. One of these tryouts "will" provide some answer.. If you don't find it this way, I'll be surprised... Good luck, Randy13233...

[Na Cl K9]

If the axle slips into position easily without the wheel on the final drive then it
should with the wheel installed. In the event the axle installs correctly
w/o the wheel in place, the wheel would then be suspect. Perhaps the
drive cup is loose or worn. The bearing stack 'might' be a problem but I
would think only in the event of a failed wheel bearing, something you may
need to check later. Does the axle slip completely through the bearing stack
in the wheel without binding?

Assuming you have put everything else back the way it was, ie. final drive
tight on flange and swingarm tight in frame and that you have a cast wheel
with drum brake:
With the wheel in place on the final drive, try lifting it slightly as you push
and turn the axle into the drive housing. Stand next to the bike so you can
reach over the saddle and grab the wheel at 12:00 position. Lift it off the
ground to take the weight off the drive cup and drive splines. Move it
slightly left and right through the vertical plain as you reach down, push and
turn the axle into and through the wheel and drive housing.

If you have a disc type rear cast wheel, the torque arm, caliper carrier and
caliper fasteners should be finger tight. They depend on the axle for proper
location and should be tightened last so they don't interfere with installing
the axle itself. Hope this works~