new 77 r-80/7

[Isamemon]

hey everyone, I am new to the BMW bikes ( been riding mostly honda and kwawasaki) and bought a beauty from original owner, 77 r-80/7, 48k miles, all service, never down, new conti back, by owner, I put on a new metzler lasertrac on front
full lftmeister farings, bmw hardcases, roberts seat back ( bike is not here trying to remeber names)
Id post a pic if I knew how
hate the sidestand
dissapointed with the brakes compared to a r-100 I rode with 3 discs

what ive done this week
all fluids and filters changed , used red-line oils and factory filters
greased everything, sterring knuckles bearings are good, no slop, not tight
full tune up, points, condensor plugs, set timing, torque heads, set valves
blanaced carbs
checked compression, good and equal
waxed it twice


questions
1) ordered the fixer bracket, for sidestand, hope that was not a mistake ($45)
2) ran premium gas, first tank got about 34 mpg, was told they got nearly mid 40's, true ? ( plugs are new, ngk bp6es and look good after running)
3) was told I should replace the top tripple tree with a stiffer one , will that really help ?
4) color is a dark metallic brown, not black, and is factory, how can I get touch up paint ? local dealer said no help
5) although I love the bike, what is the first year and what models, had all 3 disc brakes ?

looking forward to many happy rides

thanks

ps, even thought Ive ridden others ( japanese) , after my first week, love this bike

[lkchris]

No such thing as a 1977 R80/7

In 1977, the lineup was
R60/7
R75/7
R100/7
R100S
R100RS

In 1978 it became
R80/7
R100/7
R100S
R100RS

Not sure if R60/7 made it to 1978, but if it did it was the last year for sure.

Now, of course, many 1978 model year were produced in 1977. Normally bikes are first registered using model year, but I suppose not always.

This is USA information.

[Isamemon]

sorry about that
it is a 1978 with a build date of 7/77 so that is what stuk in my mind this morning was 77

[20774]

Answers (sort of) to questions:

1) the problem is that the side stand automatically pops up? That can be fixed by movement of the tang that holds the spring.
2) I would think that 40+mpg would be the norm. It's hard to say from this end, but you might need more than just carb balance. Floats, needles, diaphragms might be a good place to start. Some of these items are considered wear items and should be changed regularly.
3) depends on the way you ride. I'm perfectly happy with my '78 R100/7 as is.
4) sorry not much help, unless you can hunt around and find local paint shops who can do some color matching.
5) I wouldn't think the rear disk helps all that much given the weight transfer during braking. A second ATE up front and properly set up should give you good stopping power. I believe the other stanchion comes up for sale once in a while, plus you might have to consider changing the master cylinder. Seems to me the rear disk buys some difficulty getting the wheel off and "issues" during bleeding.

The first R80/7s were produced beginning in April 1977, so conceivably, they would be classified as 1977 models. My understanding is the 1978 models would have been produced beginning in September after the summer German holiday. The website below shows bikes built in April, not May or June, and then starting again in July 1977, both European and US models. Not sure why the stoppage during May/June.

http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/chassispages/enginechassis800.htm

My 0.02...Kurt in S.A.

[Isamemon]

thanks on the brake info
a friend of mine told me that the rears are really just speed modulators

I would be real happy with dual disc up front, but was told it was not easy, but thats what you all on this forum are all about, helping people
is ther like a website, or forum that goes into how, not that I can afford to right now

talked to the previous owner this morning, he said I should be getting in the mid 40s on gas,

so maybe I lost milage to it sitting in the garage, working on it, tune up, etc

[20774]

You said your plugs look OK, but if the floats aren't floating anymore, you'll be running rich. A quick check is to let the bowl fill up and then turn the petcock off. When the bowl is removed, there should be about 20-22mm of gas when measured in the center of the bowl. Some gas will run down the line when you remove the bowl but you try to do it quickly or move the inlet line to the carb before you drop the bowl.

Another quick check is to let the float bob in a container of gas. About 1/3 should stick up above the top of the fuel. Be careful on removing the pin holding the floats in...they only come out one way and you don't want to break off the tang. Just 'cause, I'd replace the floats so you have a known starting point. They're not that expensive...even from the dealer.

Kurt in S.A.

[Isamemon]

just posted new pics of my bike, under show us your bike thread
3 of them

[20774]

Nice pics...the backrest was made by Reynolds. I have the same one on my /7.

Kurt in S.A.

[Isamemon]

thanks
my wife likes the backrest and it kind of fits the desing of the bike, with farings and bags and all

also thanks for the carb info
I think they will make it past the summer
and will be put on my winter list of chores

[Isamemon]

kurt in S.A
does that mean south atlanta ?
southern alabama
southern antillies
south africa

just wondering

thanks for all your input

Josh

[20774]

Not that exotic...San Antonio - Remember the Alamo??

Kurt

[Isamemon]

are you serious
yes I remeber the Alamo
I was there
at least my kids think Im old enogh to have been