K100 Clutch Adjustment [Archive]

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Sirwm22

06-07-2006, 06:42 PM

Hi!
I recently purchased a 1987 K100RS. It's in great shape and I'm having a blast with it. This is the first BMW that I've owned and I have some questions that I was hoping someone would be able to help me with. Firstly, the clutch does not engage until the clutch lever is almost completely released. I've tried to adjust the clutch cable referencing some info I found on the web, but I can't seem to get it right. My only other concern is the front end. When cornering at higher speeds I feel a slight wobble in the handle bars. When traveling at speed in a straight line if I really relax my grip the bars will start to move from left to right. Any insight or advice on what to check would be appreciated. Thanks!

DcnDog

06-07-2006, 09:38 PM

Yes, the clutch is normal. They all do that.

Steering head bearings need adjustment/replacement. Check IBMWR.org tech pages.

Enjoy the K!

Dan

CustomSarge

06-07-2006, 11:13 PM

A> The traction point of your clutch is borne of both the cable adjustments And the set point of the clutch push rod. You can set this Wherever You Want: short or long; net sum at the handle.

B> The feel of front end "sloppiness" is usually triple tree bearings, but please allow for the possibility of rear swing arm bearings. It's a ~20 year old, and may have some frame/swing arm related bearing tolerances that may be Way outside proper spec...

It's usually easy, but...Season 2 taste....<<<)))

GregFeeler

06-07-2006, 11:35 PM

Yes, the clutch is normal. They all do that.

Steering head bearings need adjustment/replacement. Check IBMWR.org tech pages.

Enjoy the K!

Dan

Yes, check out the K-bike tech pages on www.ibmwr.org for some good articles on both. Also a good shop manual will help a lot. Although you have to look for some errors, the Clymer manual has a wealth of information.

DcnDog

06-08-2006, 04:15 PM

Sarge is correct in saying that the wobble may be other things...tire, rear shock, etc... See IBMWR.org

It is so simple to check the steering head bearings though...(Looking at the tire is too...)

I do have concern with A> The traction point of your clutch is borne of both the cable adjustments And the set point of the clutch push rod. You can set this Wherever You Want: short or long; net sum at the handle.

Adjusting the 10mm bolt away from the push rod may allow one to fudge with the cable. Tightening the bolt against the push rod would seem to be a definite no though. Too tight or loose could cause the clutch to not engage or dis-engage fully.

If the adjuster were to be gapped away from the push rod and one adjusted out the gap with the cable...how would you know when it was just right? Yeah I know- no slip or creep...

Maybe I am just too anal...oh, well...

Dan

CustomSarge

06-08-2006, 05:19 PM

Sorry, DcnDog, a little too vehement on my part (CH3COOH induced I suspect). I was more after the ability to bring in the engage point, at the handle, somewhat closer to the bar grip.

I prefer the full engage at ~1/2-3/4" before full handle release, if only to Know it's fully engaged. Still plenty of throw for full disengagement.

I've got fairly large hands (9.5" thumb-pinky @ expanse), but don't like the control point way out on the handle.

To your point of rod vs cable: I set my cable adjust just shy of full in (min dist), then put the handle where I want it by the rod adjust screw. This allows tweaking on the fly with only the cable adjust.

I once had a panhead w/Barnett clutch & handle: Very Long throw & necessary for disengage (still liked to grab). After a little stop/go traffic I felt like Popeye in my forearm... <<<)))

deilenberger

06-09-2006, 12:15 PM

If the adjuster were to be gapped away from the push rod and one adjusted out the gap with the cable...how would you know when it was just right? Yeah I know- no slip or creep...

Maybe I am just too anal...oh, well...

Dan
Have you read the directions on IBMWR? Or in a manual?

The cable adjustment is done first and done so a certain length of cable is exposed at the bottom end.. you THEN, and only then adjust the bolt for the throwout bearing.

Fudging it is very likely to lead to a slipping clutch, which then leads to a destroyed clutch (I've seen them - they're ugly - you don't want to do that..) Correctly adjusted - a K bike clutch should last about the life of the bike.

Sirwm22

06-09-2006, 07:50 PM

I followed the procedure outlined on 'the flying brick' website. I just found the ibmwr tech article so I'll give it another shot tomorrow night. The clutch is not slipping or malfunctioning. I just can't seem to get comfortable with it engaging at the end of the levers travel. I'll also adjust the steering head bearings. I'll post back after Sunday mornings ride. Thanks for the feedback!! :)

DcnDog

06-09-2006, 08:07 PM

Don,

I followed Clymer, which agrees with Brian's post at IBMWR I believe. I think that what is throwing me is that once you have the 75mm exposed, then adjust the push rod adjust bolt, and then adjust the lever for the 3.5 mm, then you have a clutch that works toward the end of the lever (right?).

I was trying to figure out how to move the lever action in toward the bar. My ramblings were distracting and inaccurate.

Thanks for flaring up my "Now I've got to double check everything again, for the hundreth time..." instincts :banghead "

Dan

DcnDog

06-09-2006, 09:12 PM

Don,

Ok, it is getting late and my comprehension gets even lower as the darkness gets deeper.

I re-read Brian's article http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/sidestand-clutch-adjust.shtml
And I am not sure that Clymer does agree.

Clymer has the 1/8 inch done after A) 75 mm exposed, B) adjust 10mm bolt till you barely feel resistance against push rod.

Is Brian adjusting for the lever freeplay using the push rod adjuster bolt? Does that allow for cable stretch? Is my thinking wrong- if the tranny adjuster bolt is used to create lever free play isn't there a distinct possibility of mal-adjustment at the push rod? Rats! Too dark to go to the shed and check things...

I used Clymer's method 10,000 miles ago. No slip, creep, and no noise, but then I wear ear plugs...

Dan

Sirwm22

06-10-2006, 07:12 PM

I performed the ibmwr clutch adjustment and the clutch feels perfect now. The last procedure i tried didn't mention 1/8th" free play at the lever so my adjustment at the clutch fork pushrod was probably way off. Shift quality has also improved. As far as the steering head bearing adjustment, i wasn't as lucky. I took everything apart as specified but when it came to the big lock nut it wouldn't budge. I tried a big pair of channel lock pliers. I'll just wait till i can get the proper sized wrench on it. Thanks alot everyone!!!! :D

GregFeeler

06-11-2006, 11:00 AM

DcnDog

06-11-2006, 05:34 PM

Got the time to look and put hands on. Brian's method is the safer way. There is no doubt that the pushrod is free of pressure.

Dan

kbasa

06-11-2006, 06:24 PM

For your fork bearings, you can get the right size socket from Sears for a few bux. Could save some busted knuckles or a scratched tank. :cry

What is it? 36mm or 30mm? It's a big one.

Glad to hear you guys made some progress with the clutch. I used to have a little piece of coathanger I'd cut to 75mm to measure the cable length. I probably still have it in my tool box. :ha

GregFeeler

06-11-2006, 07:00 PM

What is it? 36mm or 30mm? It's a big one.

Glad to hear you guys made some progress with the clutch. I used to have a little piece of coathanger I'd cut to 75mm to measure the cable length. I probably still have it in my tool box. :ha

It's a 32. Here's the beautiful Craftsman: http://tinyurl.com/ee8o2, and for you cheap SOB's, there's even one on sale: http://tinyurl.com/gsgld.

I gots me one of those custom coat hanger clutch tools as well. Who says BMW's aren't easy to work on?? ;)