PDA

View Full Version : Help R1200RT throttle body syn.

mosrrt
06-02-2006, 05:01 PM
Getting close on my 6000 mile service on the R1200RT . I am going to do my own service . I think I am ok with the valve adjustment but don't know much about the throttle body syn. Need some help on what tools to buy and how to do the job . Pictures would be nice also .
Thanks , Mike
cwsenn
06-02-2006, 05:47 PM
I don't know if it's factual or not but I was told that the first initial 600 mile service check up had to be done by an authorized BMW repair/service center in order to maintain the warranty. I was told they check/adjust valves, re-torque the heads and whatever else is called for. Some dealers include this in the sale but I checked it out with one locally here in the Seattle area and was quoted $242.12

Lownslo

Sorry, my screw up. I misread it...please disregard.
RTdavey
06-02-2006, 06:20 PM
I think he is doing his "6,000" mi. service.
You might try and do a serch for thr TB sync, seems like there is info out there.
kbasa
06-02-2006, 07:01 PM
The hexhead motors use a stepper motor on the throttle bodies to ensure a smooth idle. Above that, you can use a Twin Max or similar to synch them at higher revs. There aren't the familiar brass screws like on the oilheads, so you'll need to make any adjustments via the cables.

I just did the valves on my RT and found one tight exhaust valve on the right side and two very, very slightly tight exhaust valves on the left side. The intakes were still perfect.

This mirrors my experience with my GS almost exactly.
mosrrt
06-02-2006, 07:01 PM
Yes I am doing my 6000 mile service ....I will try the search
Mike
andrehd
06-04-2006, 08:19 AM
Not that I'm cheap, but here's a link to home-made carb balancer instructions:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18634&highlight=fork%2Boil

Hope the link works. Just remember, you're making a duel-leg barometer. The science here is real simple, and mine worked great. I did add a little extra length because I was paranoid about sucking water into the cylinders. It never came close. And skip the pressure gauges. You're looking for a pressure balance, not a measurement.

I've got the older brass screw design (1100), so I can't help you with the actual adjustment method.