Brake pad change

[jwhite518]

I'm about to change the front brake pads on my 1100RS for the first time on my own. Are there any consumable parts that need to be replaced, such as pins or clips? Any other helpful tips? Thanks.

[BubbaZanetti]

a few things i found to be useful when i changed the pads on my 99 R11S a few weeks ago:

sand the pins a little before re-inserting, prevents hangups
use a decent brake grease on the pins and the backs of the pads, but don't use too much
don't accidentally install one pad backwards and wonder what "that noise is" :brow
if you are thinking about using aftermarket EBC pads (and i suggest you do, the organic pads are half the price of a bmw set) make sure you lightly file the areas where the pads sit on the metal guides in the caliper, my right caliper hung up for a few hundred miles cause of my not realizing i needed to file that area, the pad finally worked its self in.

[DSBMW1]

I just changed the breaks on my R1100R and it was easy. It took about 15 min. No hassel.

[Polarbear]

Yep, the pins can be bought, too if you're worried about too much wear there. Probable fix as mentioned above is good advice. The EBC pads are good deal, but they wear a little different, brake well, and are messy from more brake dust! Get used to cleaning your wheels more. Randy13233

[jwhite518]

a few things i found to be useful when i changed the pads on my 99 R11S a few weeks ago:

sand the pins a little before re-inserting, prevents hangups
use a decent brake grease on the pins and the backs of the pads, but don't use too much
don't accidentally install one pad backwards and wonder what "that noise is" :brow
if you are thinking about using aftermarket EBC pads (and i suggest you do, the organic pads are half the price of a bmw set) make sure you lightly file the areas where the pads sit on the metal guides in the caliper, my right caliper hung up for a few hundred miles cause of my not realizing i needed to file that area, the pad finally worked its self in.

Thanks for the tip about filing the EBC backing. I did it, it helped. Brake pad change was a simple job, don't know why I ever had the dealer do it.

[Grumpole]

After reading this thread and looking at the bike replacing the rear pads on my R1150R appeared straightforward. I went with BMW replacements. I removed the old ones without a problem and installed one of the new ones, but I couldn't move it outside sufficiently to give me room to put the other one on. Obviously when the job is done there needs to be room for the rotor, two pads and a little bit of space. I double checked the part numbers and I'm sure I have the right pads. Any advice?

[PGlaves]

if you are thinking about using aftermarket EBC pads (and i suggest you do, the organic pads are half the price of a bmw set) make sure you lightly file the areas where the pads sit on the metal guides in the caliper, my right caliper hung up for a few hundred miles cause of my not realizing i needed to file that area, the pad finally worked its self in.

I have never been fond of using a file or grinder to correct an aftermarket manufacturer's fit problems - especially on something as critical as motorcycle front brakes.

I am aware of one case where dragging brakes overheated and locked up on a freeway in California - leaving a multi-car pileup behind it. And another case where dragging front brakes got hot enough to char the rubber brake line to the caliper.

I'm not at all convinced that this is a good place to save a few bucks. YMMV

[PGlaves]

After reading this thread and looking at the bike replacing the rear pads on my R1150R appeared straightforward. I went with BMW replacements. I removed the old ones without a problem and installed one of the new ones, but I couldn't move it outside sufficiently to give me room to put the other one on. Obviously when the job is done there needs to be room for the rotor, two pads and a little bit of space. I double checked the part numbers and I'm sure I have the right pads. Any advice?
Sure. You have to retract the pistons fully, or nearly fully for the new pads to have enough room to fit. As the old pads wear thinner, the pistons extend and do not retract more than a miniscule amount until you manually push them back into the caliper bores.

I do it with the old pads still in place - with a long narrow tapered punch inserted between the pads to wedge them apart. Doing it with the new pads in place can damage them, and doing it without pads can damage or actually break a piston.

It is easiest to do if you attach a bleed hose and open the bleed valve. Or you can simply push the fluid back up into the reservoir. If so - be careful that it doesn't wind up too full - above the max mark. If it does use a small syringe (like an ear bulb syringe) to withdraw the excess fluid.

[sgborgstrom]

I like remove the entire caliper when changing pads. Doing this gives me an opportunity to clean things up before forcing the pistons back into their bores.

If I have added brake fluid to compensate for pad wear I remove a bit from the MC reservior so it doesn't overflow when the cylinders are moved. Using a large flat bladed screwdriver or small prybar I use the pads to force the pistons out of the way. This shouldn't take much effort. Then slide the whole assembly back over the rotor and torque the bolts per spec. Sometimes it is easier to R&R the caliper with one pad out, you can do it just don't use the rotor for leverage to drive the cylinders back or you can end up bending it. $ :cry

Proofreading this, I realize I left out a step. Before pulling the caliper off I "crack" the bolts to make sure they will come out then snug 'em back up and use a thin punch to tap out the guide pin while the assembly is still held in place, at least enough to know it's going to come out. A dab of anti-seize makes it easier the next time around.

Steve