Juggling 830lbs

[jdiaz]

I've been dreading this job for awhile. I used my LT a lot in January when we returned from Italy, and the fork seals blew while riding around in the cold weather.

I had done this job on an R1100RS before, and it wasn't terrible, but when I also saw a drop from the water pump(!), I figured I would just strip the bike down and do some major servicing since it had mostly been parked last year.

It comes apart pretty quickly to this point, but I did it over a few nights after dinner.

[jdiaz]

So once the fenders are off, the calipers removed, and the front wheel off, its time to start pulling fork lowers. The Telelever lower fork legs are only secured at the fork brace, so once those bolts come off, we're sorta home free.

[jdiaz]

I slid the left one off first. The dust cap comes off, then a small recessed circlip needs to be removed. Then the seal is staring us right in the face.

[jdiaz]

Now I don't have a seal puller. For whatever reason, I've been putting the purchase of this $8 tool off for 10 years. :laugh

Anyway, I did have my handy Zip-Ty ISDE-approved dirt bike tire irons with a big fat blade on them. I tried angling one in and it worked perfectly.

Just to make sure the seal wanted to come out, I used my heat gun to warm up the metal around it. And it came right out.

[jdiaz]

Tapping in the new seal was no problem. For another inexplicable reason, we have a 36mm socket that fit the OD of the seal perfectly. A few taps and it was seated.

[jdiaz]

After repeating the process on the other leg, it was time to put everything back together.

I did notice a very inconsistent application of loctite on the front end parts....some screws were loaded, and others didn't have any. For a bike that had been in production almost four years (mine's a 2001), you'd think they would have gotten the manufacturing process pretty well defined. Anyway.....

The last thing to do is to make sure the lower fork legs are parallel and pulled in sufficiently to grasp the front wheel. I started this process with just using the axle, but the slop in the holes up at the fork brace showed I needed to include the wheel in the process as well. I thought this would be done at the factory, but an unusual wear pattern on the left front wheel spacer makes me think that it might not happening. I don't know.

Anyway, now its buttoned up. Off to the next procedure!

[bmwmick]

Nice write-up Mr Diaz.......BTW.......that 36mm socket was purchased for the first VW you ever had to work on. It fit the Clutch nut(IIRC) AND the rear axle nuts.
HTH.

Jon,
Did you happen to check the ball joint to lower fork bridge for tightness? I've heard of TWO of those backing out of the fork bridge just recently. Can't imagine that would be fun, no matter WHERE it happens.

[jdiaz]

Did you happen to check the ball joint to lower fork bridge for tightness? I've heard of TWO of those backing out of the fork bridge just recently. Can't imagine that would be fun, no matter WHERE it happens.
Mick, I didn't put a wrench on it, but it was flush to the top of the fork brace. I should probably check it while everything's off. Thanks.

The VW comment was funny. Haven't had a Bug since 1984. :D

[eljeffe]

Jon,

Would you please share this with the gang at www.bmwlt.com ?

They love stuff like this.

[jdiaz]

Would you please share this with the gang at www.bmwlt.com ?

bmwlt.who? :laugh

Can I post pics directly, or do I need to link them?

[jerryb]

Nice write up!
Thanks for the reminder to use a heat gun in Any oil seal removal. It's one of those things you know you should do every time but don't to your possible regret. I do use it when putting new ones in though.

Being still rather new to these forums I surprised myself at how keenly interested I was in your post, even though I own an airhead.

I'm finding that this forum e-medium is much more effective than any mag. in getting and holding my attention. It's like the posts are a personal message while the mag. articles seem sterile and detached unless the topic and/or writing are superb.

jerryb