BMW Glasurit paint

[les_garten]

Hello,
I am thinking of painting my own Bike. Does anybody have any resources to help me learn how to Paint with Glasurit paint. This will be my first painting experience.

Les

[dlearl476]

I would invest in a body shop class at your local community college, unless you want a bike that is truely "yours". (Because no one would ever buy it.) They'll have the gear, the know-how, and the paint booth.

[Bokrijder]

Les,

How about giving us some more information. You will get some ideas to achieve your goals.
Glasurit paint and "first painting experience" don't really fit in the same sentence.

Motard

[les_garten]

I want to repaint my R100RT

Les

[Bokrijder]

Les,

If you are going to do the frame, I would suggest sending it off to a powder coat shop. In my area, the cost is very reasonable and the results are excellent.
For the bodywork, I would ride the bike to the local professional paint supply house. They will take a look at the color and be able to match it. Explain your situation and ask for the easiest to apply paint product system. As a general statement, a professional paint is going to require a professional gun and an adequate air supply to drive it. $$$
Educate yourself and practice before approaching the bike. Be prepared for a very steep learning curve but if you stick with it, you should do OK.

Good luck

Motard

[The_Veg]

Les, where do you live? I have a friend near Fort Worth who is not a pro but his paintwork is AMAZING. Last year he did his R100RT in a non-stock colour with a very faint sunburst and a pinstripe. Everyone who's seen it has commented positively. He's given me a standing offer to piant my bike if I ever decide it needs it, so maybe he could help you too.

[les_garten]

Les, where do you live? I have a friend near Fort Worth who is not a pro but his paintwork is AMAZING. Last year he did his R100RT in a non-stock colour with a very faint sunburst and a pinstripe. Everyone who's seen it has commented positively. He's given me a standing offer to piant my bike if I ever decide it needs it, so maybe he could help you too.

Hi,
Thanx for the info. I live in Jupiter, FL. Holt wants $2900 to paint my bike. I got a local quote of $1600. I just figured for the kind of money we're talking here, I could buy the equipment(Compressor, Gun, Homemade Paint Booth) and go thru the learning curve and screw up a few times and be better off in the long run. I'll know how to paint, and I'll own a compressor and paint gun for a lot less than $2900!

Les

[Bokrijder]

Holt and a shop up the road, The Warkshop, do "prize winning" "trophy winning" work. Hand pin striping etc. At that price, there is a waiting list. I have a R69S in progress, thus speak from experience.
Bikes are quite difficult to paint. The challenge is all of the edges, corners, concave, and convex surfaces. Modern paint requires a uniform film thickness to achieve both color and surface appearance. The paint tends to built up in the mentioned areas before the flat areas have the required film thickness or vice versa.
After you can spray a flat surface, move on to odd shapes. Lawn furniture ?
I can see it now. Everything that you own will be in your bike color. Perseverance until you reach your goal is the only roadblock.
Best of luck.

Motard

[JKERSH1]

Here's a link if you've got the do-it-yourself itch or you're just "Under-funded and Under-skilled".

http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_paintin.htm

There are also a couple of articles on prep'ing and polishing.

[les_garten]

Here's a link if you've got the do-it-yourself itch or you're just "Under-funded and Under-skilled".

http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_paintin.htm

There are also a couple of articles on prep'ing and polishing.

Thanx! He's got some interesting stuff on his site.

Les

[pmdave]

I don't see any advantage of the German paints over American paints. Automotive paints come in a huge variety of colors, hues, metallics, etc.

However, unless you really want to get serious about painting, I suggest you have a professional painter do the actual painting.

Most of the labor in a paint job is in the preparation. I spend hours wet sanding the parts, filling in little dings and scratches, and getting the surface as smooth as possible. Then I take the parts to a local body shop for the actual painting. If the painter wants to do any additional prep, that's up to him. What we have encountered is cracks in fiberglass that didn't show up until the primer coat was shot, which started the prep all over again.

Yes, it's frustrating having to wait in line for the painter (sometimes months) and I sometimes think about buying a good spray gun. I have a good sized compressor. But then I'd need some sort of spray booth to keep the paint off other vehicles, and a respirator to avoid sucking in those noxious fumes from today's 2-part paints, and some good cleaner to clean out the gun, etc. etc. etc. That's way too involved for the occasional tank or fender. And more than a few backyard painters have looked back a few minutes after the "perfect" spray job to find hundreds of gnats imbedded in the surface.

That's not to discourage you from learning to paint. You might end up building your own paint booth and taking in work from others.

pmdave

[dlearl476]

Hi,
Thanx for the info. I live in Jupiter, FL. Holt wants $2900 to paint my bike. I got a local quote of $1600. I just figured for the kind of money we're talking here, I could buy the equipment(Compressor, Gun, Homemade Paint Booth) and go thru the learning curve and screw up a few times and be better off in the long run. I'll know how to paint, and I'll own a compressor and paint gun for a lot less than $2900!

Les

Les, I always wanted to "do" a car myself. I figured I'd get lots of experience, have a great time, and end up with a garage full of body work tools, like you do.
My chosen experiment was a '70 BMW 2002. I DID learn a lot, I DID end up with a garage full of tools. I also ended up with a BMW 2002 with a $300 paint job that cost me $3,000, NOT including my time.
Believe me, you'll be WAY AHEAD by paying Holt $2900 to paint your bike. You'll end up with a beautiful bike, as well.

[les_garten]

Les, I always wanted to "do" a car myself. I figured I'd get lots of experience, have a great time, and end up with a garage full of body work tools, like you do.
My chosen experiment was a '70 BMW 2002. I DID learn a lot, I DID end up with a garage full of tools. I also ended up with a BMW 2002 with a $300 paint job that cost me $3,000, NOT including my time.
Believe me, you'll be WAY AHEAD by paying Holt $2900 to paint your bike. You'll end up with a beautiful bike, as well.


You'll really appreciate this then. Once I get this Beemer lookin' good, I need to paint my 911 Turbo! Between the two of them, that's $10K in paintwork. I gotta be able to figure this out and paint these two vehicles for less than $10K!

Les

[Bokrijder]

You'll really appreciate this then. Once I get this Beemer lookin' good, I need to paint my 911 Turbo! Between the two of them, that's $10K in paintwork. I gotta be able to figure this out and paint these two vehicles for less than $10K!

Les

What Dave is saying is that producing a quality paint job is really difficult, an art if you will. There are many working in the trade, who can probably not produce the level of quality which one would expect on the 911. I'm not referring to paint hacks either. Some paint gun men have the right stuff - others do not.
Give it a go on the bike, then move to a beater auto - If you have the talent, it will be obvious. No talent - it will be just as obvious. Either way, you'll have the satisfaction of trying.
I'd suggest buying a top quality brand name gun. Its a big help in achieving the results which you're looking for. If things don't pan out, the gun will have resale value.

Motard

[r65lsk75c]

About six years ago I decided I would teach myself the fine art of automotive painting. It was always something that interested me and I was beginning the restoration of a '65 Corvair. No better time to learn - right? Six years later I have started to write a book on the subject of amateur auto refinishing. It is an experience that quickly allowed me to realize why the professionals charge what they do. Would I do it over again? Without hesitation! If you are financially equipped to buy the right equipment from the start, it will (can) become an extremely rewarding experience.

First, and foremost, you will need a quality air compressor - minimum 5 hp, 60 gal tank - preferable 7.5 hp, 80 gal tank. the 7.5 hp unit will require a 220v power line. Plan on $1500-$2000 for the compressor. This will be required for the auto, a smaller unit will work for the cycle. Next, as others have advised, a quality paint gun (or two). The HVLP gun technology will reduce the overspray and allow you to get more paint on the surface. I would recommend at least one regular-sized gun (~$150-$500) and a touch-up gun (~$100-$300). It's a bit cumbersome, but the small gun can be used to refinish a bike. The prep tools are next: pneumatic or electric DA sander, sanding blocks, body files, and others depending on whether or not body work will be necessary. The paint can vary dramatically in price. There are online stores that sell complete paint kits for cars at very reasonable prices (~$200 and up). On the other hand if you go to your neighborhood auto paint dealer (I have used PPG products exclusively), expect to pay a lot more. Remember, you will need a primer (epoxy), a primer surfacer (requires much sanding to get that perfectly smooth final finish), a basecoat (your color), and the clearcoat topping to give gloss and uv protection. Completing the finish will require hours of sanding, buffing and polishing of the clearcoat.

Don't forget safety!!! All modern catalyzed paints are extremely toxic. Many of the products are colorless and oderless. These chemicals can be absorbed through the skin, eyes, and obviously by inhalation. A simple canister respirator does not provide adequate protection. One really needs a supplied air system. Mine (HobbyAir) costs around $500.

So, the bottom line is that getting started in the art of painting can be quite expensive. If you want to do it because you really want to do and you want to experience that rush when someone admiringly asks who painted your car or bike, then by all means go for it. The one tool that will turn out to be a fabulous investment no matter if you never use the paint gun again is the compressor. There are few tools more valuable!

If you are still interested in pursuing this hobby, there are a host of educational tools out there. Check out the www.paintucation.com website. I have many videos and books on the subject. Let me know and I would be happy to recommend some of the better ones.

Good luck!
Rick T

[el_poderoso]

Howto prepare:

http://mysite.verizon.net/vze806yb/motorradmitch/process.html

Forget using Glasurit paint as a first time project. You will spend $250 or more on materials and I can all but assure you that you will fail. I paint bikes for $600-1000 and they come out better than factory new quality. I charge $35 an hour and I work 5x faster than the best amateur because of my extensive investment in tools and experience. In otherwords, for the money you'll save, you'd be working for $5-7 an hour for mediocre results... BUT, if I can't talk you out of this foolish project of yours, here's how you can get the best results with the least money and experience. This is a big hit at my painting tech sessions and some folks have gotten suprisingly good results. Enjoy.

HOW TO DO A QUALITY POVERTY PAINT JOB

A basic single-color repaint on motorcycle can cost $600-1500, but there is a combination of techniques and materials that will work for modestly skilled persons with modest budgets.

Remove the painted parts from the bike and make wooden jigs to hold your parts with 2x4s. These jigs can be held firm with collapsible steel sawhorse legs you can buy at a hardware store.

We’ll skip the preparation instructions here. Just note that without proper preparation it is impossible to achieve a good paint job. There are many books on the subject available your auto body supply store or online.
We are going to use lacquer for the new paint job, so find a place on a part that doesn't show, and wet it with lacquer thinner. If the thinner immediately attacks the paint, you will have to strip the pieces. Use U-Pol #5 high build primer to fill scratches, level out feather edged areas and sanded paint surfaces no deeper than 150 grit. Block sand the U-Pol #5 primer with #400 wet sand paper and finish the entire part to be painted to #600.
Now, here comes the heresy! You don't need a $600 gun or even an air compressor. If you use professional quality materials, it is possible to get decent results with spray cans or Pre-Vals. (Lowes and Home Depot have them).
Of course, if you can rent/buy or borrow an HVLP gun and an air compressor, that is the best choice, but I have done surprisingly good work with Pre-Vals and professional grade aerosols.
The trick is to use lacquer. CAVEAT: Lacquer is not nearly as good as a 2-part urethane, but it is great for beginners because it will forgive a multitude of sins. Urethane will resist scratches, gasoline and UV rays 5-times better than lacquer, but applying it is only for the very skilled, using top-grade equipment. If you get a bad run with urethane, it may be several days before the material will be hard enough to sand out, and then, only with great difficulty. Lacquer hardens in minutes.
Use PPG, Dupont, or comparable name brand. Generally speaking, you will need a pint of color (the supplier can match your existing color), a quart of clear coat, and a gallon of FINISH QUALITY thinner. Get the same brand for all three. You will also need a glass one-quart measuring cup, and a couple of empty quart size paint cans with tops from the hardware store.
Safety notice: You need a two-cartridge organic vapor mask, not a paper dust mask. Also, lacquer vapor is explosive. No flames or sparks!
Generally, you can paint in a garage with the doors open or outdoors if the temperature is above 65 degrees, with no wind. Lacquer dries too quickly to pick up much dirt or dust, but a leaf or bug can really screw-up wet paint. Should this happen, take a deep breath, let the paint dry for 2 hours and wet sand the effected area with #600.
OK, the rule is 95% of your time is spent in prep and 5% in painting. We are ready! Mix the paint exactly according to the directions, shaking or stirring at every stage, and store the sprayable mix in the paint cans. Mix up about a quart of each. Spray very light coats. When you start thinking, "It needs one more pass" it is time to stop. Wet coats are for professionals.
Spray three light coats of color, waiting 20-30 minutes between coats. Remember to stir your paint thoroughly between each coat, particularly with a metallic paint. If you get a drip or run, you're spraying way too heavy. It's best to find this out on the practice pieces. Wait about two hours, then sand the drip out with #600, dry.
Recoat with color. Don't sand between the color and clear coats. It's OK if the color looks a bit rough or grainy. All the color coats do is provide color coverage.
Now it is time for the clear coat. Again, use light coats. Hit the practice pieces to get the feel. Put on about 4-5 light coats, same interval as above.
It probably doesn't look that good right now, but that is the nature of lacquer. Not to worry, as long as there are no big drips at this stage, the roughness and "orange peel" don't matter. You're looking at the cumulative errors in 8 coats.
Wait about six hours, then gently wet sand the finish with #1000, no sanding block. You will see a mottled effect where there is orange peel, as you have sanded the high spots, but not the low. Keep wiping with a damp rag, look at the surface, and sand until the finish is a uniform dull sheen.
Now, spray on two more coats of clear. It should look a lot better, as you are now looking at the bad news from only two coats. Let the finish harden for several days.
While you are waiting, make another trip to the paint supplier. You need to get 3M Imperial wet or dry #1500 and #2500 grit paper and a Porter Cable foam buffing pad for your DA sander/polisher. If you use it on the Porter Cable DA Sander/Polisher, it is virtually impossible to burn the paint. If you find the orbital action is too slow going, get an arbor and use the pad on a variable speed drill. If you do not have a Porter Cable DA Sander/Polisher, ask your auto body supplier for a 6.5” Meguiar's Foam Buffing Pad or comparable product. Also, get a bottle of Meguiar's "Mirror Glaze #9 Swirl Remover," a very fine polishing compound. You can select a coarser, faster cutting compound if you are more confident of your skills.
Back to the project:
Cut the #1500 paper into small pieces about 4" square and wet-sand the parts with lukewarm water with a little liquid dish soap added. Same drill as above, you will see the mottled effect, sand until it is gone. Keep the area wet, dry it off to see how it's coming. When sanding or polishing, go really easy at edges and ridges. The paper is ultra fine, so this takes awhile. I highly recommend switching to #2500 when you are getting close.
Now, we buff. This part is almost magical. You must have the parts tied down or someone who is willing to hold them down for you while being spattered with compound. Otherwise the polisher can throw a part right across the shop.
Smear a light coat of the "Swirl Remover" all over the part, then polish with the foam pad at 1500 RPM on a variable speed drill or as fast as you want on the Porter Cable DA Sander/Polisher. Keep the pad moving, and use only light pressure. Have the pad rotating off edges, not toward them.
Polish over the entire piece until the compound starts to disappear. Wash the excess off with clear water, and you should see a good shine. Look the part over carefully, in good light. You may want to re-sand and re-buff some areas. Then polish again. I find it takes at least two passes with the compound. You should have a crystal finish.
Never touch paint with a rag that is less than perfectly clean. Use only soft, clean terrycloth and throw them away after use. THE BEST POLISHING CLOTH IS A CLOTH BABY DIAPER.
If you MUST USE SPRAY CANS, I recommend finishing with U-POL CLEAR #1 (which is a urethane) or KK7 Urethane Clear Kit from Colorrite.com.
· Don't wax for a month or so, to let the lacquer harden
· Never spill gas on the finish
· Keep a cover on your bike if it will be kept out in the sun all day on a regular basis
· Polish the finish with a good cleaner wax once a year.
Small Buffing Pads http://www.crestnetsales.com/detail/specialtypads.htm
Motorcycle Paint http://www.holtbmw.com
http://www.colorrite.com